Pamphylia

The only thing I would change about this local Turkish-Mediterranean restaurant is the chairs. They are very…upright. One feels as if you are sitting to attention in a 1950s grammar school. But the friendly service and the warm atmosphere more than make up for this furnishing oddity.

If you had been to a 1950s grammar school, you might have learnt that Pamphylia was, in ancient geographical terms, the area that is now the Antalaya province of Turkey. I’m talking about the name, not the restaurant, you understand – this is in Muswell Hill – and last I heard there were never any Hittites or Persians in this old London neighbourhood. Nor, I would imagine, were there any decent restaurants in the 1950s.

The food is reasonably priced and portions are big; this is the kind of place you visit for a feast. Starters typically include meze dishes to share, such as pastry parcels of spinach and cheese, spicy sausage in a red wine reduction, and a pepper stuffed with beef mince and topped with melted mozzarella, which I would highly recommend.

The main courses are varied with something for everyone, but I almost always order the mixed grill. I just can’t help myself, I was born a carnivore and that blood-lust is hard to overcome. The mixed grill is a gigantic plate of chicken kebabs, lamb chops, lamb koftas and even some rice and salad for good measure. If you can manage to polish this dish off, you probably won’t have room for dessert. In fact you will need to arrange an airlift to get you out of the restaurant. But in my book, that’s a good thing.

Muswell Hill and the surrounding areas are not short on restaurants, and some good ones at that. The fact that Pamphylia has managed to hold its own as a favoured local haunt is testament to their consistency and a simple menu that delivers good food without fuss and with a welcoming smile. The Pamphylians would’ve been proud.

Pamphylia, 462 Muswell Hill Broadway, London N10 1BS. Tel: 020 8442 2662.