Zuma

Mixing urban industrial chic with natural elements of stone and wood, the interior of Zuma immediately smacks of high-class, trendy elitism. The ceiling is a warren of aluminium pipes reminiscent of the Lloyds building, the bar and the sushi counter are mounted on huge stone monoliths, and the whole place reeks of cool. No wonder this is a hotbed of celebrities and the Knightsbridge bourgeoisie.

Stopping for a drink in the bar area, I find myself surrounded by people wearing oversized sunglasses and the latest Prada designs. As you find at Nobu, it looks as if everyone is wondering who everyone else is, while at the same time trying to appear as if they belong there. It feels as if you have just stepped into a Bret Easton Ellis novel.

At the table, it’s a more relaxed affair. Urban music plays from somewhere amidst the metal piping overhead, but the stone floor and the size of the room makes it noisy and airy, a bit like the acoustic one finds in a large canteen.

We plumped for the tasting menu, a wallet-busting price but well worth it for the exceptional food on offer. The selection of nigiri sushi and sashimi arrives on a bed of crushed ice; the fish is of the highest quality and virtually melts in the mouth. The robata grilled wagyu beef is superlative, the marinated black cod a delight. The most notable dish of the evening, however, was a seared and miso-marinated foie gras with umeboshi compote. The umeboshi, a type of dried, pickled fruit, was unbelievably sharp, sour and salty, providing an incredible contrast to the deep, rich and overbearing foie gras. You couldn’t eat one without the other. It was a black and white flavour combination that made one wince and laugh at the same time, utterly fabulous.

To drink, we tried one of their sakes from the extensive list. I do like my sake but I’m no expert, and this one was as good as any I’ve tried before.

Service was polite and attentive, and we weren’t table-turned despite it being a busy Saturday night; they didn’t know I was from The Arbuturian either so perhaps we just got lucky.

I’ve dined at Zuma’s sister restaurant, Roka, headed by Kiwi chef Nic Watt, and although the dishes are superb and certainly no less dazzling, Zuma just has the edge when it comes to Japanese haute cuisine. Roka is a much more down-to-earth experience whereas Zuma is a culinary exploration. One of the biggest surprises is that it has not been awarded a Michelin-star yet. Even Michel Roux Jnr has stated publicly that he believes they deserve one, and he should know. Perhaps it’s just too cool for the inspectors.

If you don’t mind posing with wannabe celebrities and people who wear Marc Jacobs, then you really must give Zuma a go. For foodies, it’s simply heavenly.

Zuma, 5 Raphael Street, Knightsbridge, London SW7 1DL. Tel. 020 7584 1010.