In an idyllic setting on the Thames aboard a handcrafted wooden boat, Karen Yates discovers Roebuck Estates’ exquisite new sparkling wine, Rare Expressions No.96 — a limited-edition cuvée crafted with as much care and artistry as the vessel it was launched on…
I was introduced to Roebuck Estates’ newest launch, Rare Expressions No.96, on a beautifully restored wooden boat. Just imagine sailing down the Thames on one of the hottest days of the year so far, passing grand houses with sloping, striped lawns that stretch all the way to the water, swans and cygnets paddling serenely and red kites circling overhead in the still air.
The boat itself comes from Peter Freebody & Co, one of the oldest boat builders in the world, established 300 years ago and located on the banks of the river in Hurley, Berkshire. Those who work there are skilled craftspeople – all the painstaking woodworking and frame-building is done by hand – even the varnishing of the finished boats is completed by owner Richard’s sister Katie, leaving a glossy, honey-coloured finish you’d expect on a bespoke vessel.
Along with the boats being created from scratch, several Rivas are being restored – the James Bond-style boats (Rivas can be seen in From Russia with Love and Casino Royale) are sent here from Italy to be worked on by those who know how to do the best job.
Which brings me neatly on to Roebuck Estates No.96, the second of the Rare Expressions series, comprising only 1,600 bottles (each individually labelled to highlight its rarity) and taking 96 months to create. Herein lies the similarity to the bespoke boats – it’s a real art to know exactly how to make Roebuck English sparkling wine and to judge precisely when it’s ready for bottling. The No.96 comes from the 2014 vintage, reflecting the patience and time required to create such an outstanding sparkling wine.
But what does it taste like, you may well ask. Using the three grape varietals that create Champagne and the basis of all Roebuck Estates wines, it’s a classic blend of chardonnay (47%), pinot noir (38%) and pinot meunier (15%). This golden-coloured sparkling wine has delicate bubbles, a velvety texture and notes of baked apples, honey, walnuts and candied citrus peel with a biscuity richness. Quite delicious and perfect served chilled in a vintage boat on the Thames, or – I imagine – at a very special celebration.
Can it be matched with food, I wondered? Danesfield House in nearby Marlow not only serves Roebuck English sparkling wines but chef Matthew Edmonds is able to create dishes that pair with them. The menu changes throughout the year, but on my visit he matched Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvée 2018 with Wye Valley asparagus, hazelnut vinaigrette and wild garlic, followed by a chicken liver parfait with cherry, lettuce and wood sorrel matched with the Blanc de Noirs 2018.
Next came the standout dish, incredibly tender Texel cross lamb with a hazelnut crumb, hispi cabbage, black garlic and apple purée paired with the Rare Expressions No.96. Finally, a refreshing pineapple carpaccio with coconut ice cream, pomegranate seeds and coriander complemented the tropical notes of the Rosé de Noirs 2019.
What a delightful way to experience the newly launched Rare Expressions No.96, and how I wished I could glide home in one of Peter Freebody’s handcrafted wooden boats, but it was time to catch a train home and leave behind halcyon tales of the riverbank.
For more information on Roebuck Estates, including details of the Rare Expression No.96, please visit www.roebuckestates.co.uk.
Read more about Peter Freebody & Co at www.peterfreebody.com.
