Amid the sun-dappled slopes of the South Downs, Rathfinny Estate is quietly leading a sparkling revolution. In celebration of English Wine Week, Sophie McLean journeys to Sussex to uncork the story behind one of the country’s most elegant and ambitious vineyards…
A couple of years ago I walked from Seaford in East Sussex across the Seven Sisters trail to Eastbourne. It was a beautiful late spring day, and after nearly twenty kilometers (that’s 13 miles for those of you who work in ‘real money’), we flopped contentedly onto a pub picnic table for a refreshing pint of cider.
Of course the main attraction of this walk are the cliffs. Beautiful, bright white mammoths of stone that rise up and out of the water, turning into undulating waves of green grass and shrubbery that graze the tops of these and provide guidelines to those who are walking. The stone is made of chalk. Soft stone that has symbolised this part of the world for time immemorial, and a bedrock of importance in many other ways.
Little known to me at the time, sitting just behind the town of Seaford is a whole other point of (more intentionally constructed) beauty. Here, tucked behind a ridge, three miles from the coast upstream on the Cuckmere river, lies Rathfinny wine estate – one of the current jewels in English Wine’s glittering crown. The extensive driveway that takes you from the main road up to the winery ascends with twists and turns, passing open views of this countryside that is quite special, and offering sights onto the National Trust’s White Horse as you go.
Once you arrive, the glowing red of the logo greets you in contrast (on the day we visited) to the similarly burning blue of the sky, and the bright green of the fields and vineyards that surround. The Rathfinny logo itself is modelled on the crest of Sussex, removing the birds (who make themselves omnipresent still in sound if not vision – a nest of skylarks protruding from the winery rooftop), and replacing these with a series of grapes instead.
Rathfinny was founded by Mark and Sarah Driver who bought the land in 2010, planting vines in 2012 and making slow but steady progress to build the now much reputed English Sparkling Wine brand that they have today. Fifteen years on, and the site now boasts a brilliant cellar door that runs as part of the working winery, where daily tasks and checks are carried out alongside fawning visitors enjoying the grape to glass experience.
We begin our tour outside with a coffee from The Hut – a recent addition to the set-up here, meaning passing visitors can pop in for a cuppa and sit and admire the views even if not participating further. Tours run thrice daily every Friday Saturday and Sunday, guided by enthusiastic hosts who make it their mission to know as much as possible across all aspects of the vineyards, to winery, to bottling line.
Ten beautifully adorned rooms in the Flint Barns, once home to the pickers who come for harvest, make up a whole area dedicated to overnight hospitality including its own restaurant for those staying, serving breakfast and dinner, as well as catering for weddings, parties and special gastronomic led events. Outside of this, for many, the main draw of a visit to Rathfinny is the winery’s excellent main restaurant – open Wednesday to Sunday for lunch, and dinners on select days.
Passing under wineglass shaped lights, a short corridor takes you down into a room where floor to ceiling windows flood the area with bright light as well as offering up magnificent views over the vineyards, indoors and out. We are visiting on the occasion of a new menu being launched – a pivot away from full fine dining, to more of a relaxed sharing plates concept.
Whilst formality may have diminished, our experience of service, presentation and quality of dishes are absolutely faultless. Jake Cranch – a Gold Service Scholarship winning finalist in 2025 and his team will look after you effortlessly, dishing up fantastic fayre from head chef Chris Bailey. The newly revamped menu is divided into snacks, small plates, large plates and sweets.
Favourites include Sussex smokie croquettes, deep fried truffle Ndjua lasagne and grape and rosemary focaccia. Oysters that arrive from the slightly further away Maldon coastline are paired beautifully with the 2019 Estate Rosé. Labneh with wild black garlic and cheese curd stuffed ramiro peppers complement the 2019 Estate blanc de blancs – driving brightness from the Chardonnay into conversation as much as the mouths that are the deserving liquid’s recipients. Main courses of grilled cornish skate with seaweed butter and lamb shoulder with braised butter beans and lovage aioli match brilliantly to the 2020 Estate Blanc de Noirs – a stunning example of red fruit bubbling into one’s glass for a rich and gastronomic mouthfilling experience.
Rathfinny’s USP is that all their wines are vintage specific – no Non Vintage or Multi-vintage in sight, each cuvée is intended to bring to light the very best of the years in which they are made. They are also all low-intervention, whole bunch pressed and matured on lees to develop their signature rich style – one that is complemented by low dosages to enhance the purity of the estate grown fruit.
The restaurant wine list offers a complete selection of all wines made, including an exclusive selection of ‘fossil wines’ – extremely limited quantities of late disgorged wines from the estate’s library collection that includes the very first 2016 release, as well as their restaurant exclusive Cradle Valley still wines – a Pinot Gris, a rosé and a red made from Pinot Précoce that arrives in a light and fruity style. A number of other wines from top names the world over complete the wine list, meaning you will always be in good vinous company even if you want to dip a toe away from all things English.
For a memorable day out, overnight stay, or simple walk amidst these vines, this B corp beacon of English Sparkling wine success is a destination not worth missing. For quality local produce and pretty seaside landscapes, Sussex most definitely sells.
For more information, including activities scheduled over this year’s English Wine week (21st-29th June), please visit www.rathfinnyestate.com. The Cellar Door is open Monday – Sunday from 10am – 5pm for in- store purchases, tours, complimentary drop-in tastings and click and collect orders.
