“Not sure I’ve been doing much yo-ho-ho’ing lately, old chap”, quoth Larry as he arrived at the Pantechnicon in Belgravia. “Have you seen the weather lately?”
It was our second time visiting this particular spot. Our first time had resulted in a splendid lunch at Amélie, in similarly inclement weather, but we had been lured back for the rooftop Japanese restaurant, SACHI, which had launched its Christmas menu, along with its ‘House of Suntory’ whisky range of cocktails; the perfect pick-me-up in this freezing December season. Sushi, robata grill dishes, whisky and a couple of surprises: sign us up, we thought.
We headed up to the third floor of the Pantechnicon, for a space that was civilised and welcoming, but also splendidly comfortable. Before we could so much as get our bearings, we were recommended a couple of cocktails in the form of the Three Peaks Highball, a whisky-based delight with honey and ginger that acquired near-medicinal qualities. “Hits the spot, old boy”, Larry said cheerily.
Then it was into the Hikari menu – which, I’m told, is Japanese for ‘sparkle’, thus suitably monickered for the festive season – and which wittily styles itself “sushi, not turkey”. You kick off with yellowtail sashimi, peerlessly presented and served, and then something more unusual in the shape of crispy sushi rice with avocado and salmon.“That’s a new one on me,” Larry muttered, “but it’s rather delightful, don’t you think?” Indeed. Washed down with a glass of Albarino, it’s the stuff of legend.
We stick with salmon for the next round of courses, for the excellently named ‘sake avocado’, but we also try the wagyu beef gyoza – moreish, delectable – and the crispy squid, a delight and a joy forever. As an interim course it seems only fitting to swerve back to cocktails, and so I enjoy a variant on an Old Fashioned, the Whispers of Harmony, while Larry says complimentary things about the short, delectable take on a martini, the Winter Moon.
Then it’s into the savoury treats proper, and the beef short rib with miso is not only a superbly carnivorous joy, but it even comes with little roasted sprouts; a witty nod to the festive season. And Larry’s baby chicken is splendidly moreish, allowing him to talk about how the little fellow is so superior to turkey, graced with a clutch of grilled sprouts for that Christmassy twist.
It was nearly time to head off into the smog and dark, but pudding had to come first, in the form of a selection of the chef’s mochi, and it was a very fine treat indeed. It is fair to say that the whole shebang put us in the best mood and quite made us forget the bad weather. “That”, a satisfied Larry said, “was even better than the family Christmas”. It was all I could do not to (quietly) assent.
The Hikari menu is available now at SACHI, Pantechnicon, 19 Motcomb St, London SW1X 8LB. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.sachirestaurants.com.
