In a landscape steeped in history and fizzing with world-class sparkling wine, Lisse Garnett journeys through East Sussex’s newly minted Wine Route, discovering organic estates, medieval secrets, and a growing viticultural revolution that’s putting the Sussex Winelands firmly on the map…
The Rother Triangle encompasses seven breathtakingly pretty wineries, accessible by train from London Bridge and linked by myriad ancient footpaths, drovers’ routes and country lanes. Great Dixter, Bodiam Castle and Battle Abbey are just three of the historic sites along the way which also features a good many magnificent country pubs.
Several of the participating wineries within the Rother Triangle farm organically, not easy in our damp climate. Oxney Organic Estate is one of them, they were awarded a 95 point Decanter Gold Medal for their organic 2019 Blanc de Blanc just last week, an exceptional achievement that labels English wine world class.
The Rother Triangle offers an opportunity to really explore the pubs and drovers’ routes of a sought-after yet relatively undiscovered region which has attracted the likes of Paul McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Jeff Beck, Graham Norton, Roger Daltry and Brian Jones, all of whom live or have lived in the area. Roger Daltry even has his own brewery and tap room, Lakedown which I cannot recommend highly enough for their excellent beer and weekend street food pop ups.
The route also encompasses a magnificent stretch of coastline which includes the famously lovely oyster port of Rye, the lost city of Winchelsea with its mysterious medieval cellars and Spike Milligan’s infamous grave. The 1066 walk joins the Rother Triangle too, a fitting link to England’s tenth century invasion by the naughty French (who most likely built the cellars under Winchelsea too).
Here, then, is a selection of the participating vineyards…
Charles Palmer Vineyards
It would be impossible to imagine a more picturesque location than Grade II* listed Wickham Manor, the site of Charles Palmer Vineyards and once home to William Penn who founded Pennsylvania. Today it is owned by the National Trust.
The Palmers have been farming tenants here for over 25 years and operate a successful and unpretentious B&B in the magnificent manor very much in line with their no-nonsense farming roots. This is a family run working farm not given up to wine poncery and it is all the more charming for it.
Those of you with a love of history will fall into romantic reverie at the site of Wickham Manor with its medieval archway entrance, once a town gateway into Winchelsea (before the sea reclaimed it). Winchelsea is one of the most wondrous and mysterious towns in England, its fortifications, church and pretty tile hung houses will take your breath away.
Oxney
Oxney Organic Estate lies in the parish of Stone Cum Ebony on the boundary with Kent and was once an island surrounded by marshy sea. The local church was built on the remains of a Roman Mithraic temple, burned by the Vikings in 994 AD who no doubt navigated the marshes to get there. The Royal Military Canal is nearby.
Built in 1804 to defend England from the once very real threat of Napolean, the canal elicited a population boom. It is hard to imagine crowds today as you sip fine wine lulled by sublime vistas, fragrant indigenous plant life and the gentle of hum of bumble bees in this heavenly spot, enriched by organic viticulture.
Oxney offers an extensive range of elegantly appointed Nordic styled accommodation, fine enough to suit the highest of expectations. Many regular guests hail from Norway, which is now a hugely important and booming market for English wine.
Oxney is a magical place to tarry a while over a bottle surrounded by the very best vistas that Sussex has to offer.
Tillingham
Tillingham is a Michelin Green Star winery much lauded for delivering London level hospitality, a chemical free operation and natural wine to a sleepily fabulous corner of Peasmarsh. Farmed organically and biodynamically, this picturesque mixed farm utilizes both modern tech and ancient farming methods.
The medieval farmstead has been beautifully and sensitively expanded to include stylish hotel rooms, a restaurant and an open pizzeria. Enjoy views over ancient deciduous woodland and rolling salt marshes, famous for nurturing the sweetest most succulent lamb known to man. The vegetables served at Tillingham are homegrown and you can sleep soundly knowing that you are not damaging the environment thanks to composting loos, expert insulation and low energy lighting.
Tillingham proudly trains local youngsters through apprenticeship schemes and supports local charities. An ethical approach has been the guiding principle of the owner, Terence Davenport who, together with Will Davenport (no relation) in Kent is an organic grape growing pioneer.
Mountfield Winery
Mountfield Winery near Battle is also a long-established working farm producing silver medal winning wines that offers an extremely romantic ‘cabin’ with terrace to rent for two. The farm boasts a stunning pile, Mountfield Court where the family have been in residence since 1863. Everything vineyard related is done by the family, so production remains boutique with only 10,00 bottles of traditional sublime quality English sparkling produced.
Mountfield is well integrated into the village community, their website lists a number of regular fairs, picnics and events that take place in the garden grounds which they open for charity under The National Open Garden Scheme. The location is very special and quintessentially Sussex flavoured, it’s definitely worth taking the trouble to plan ahead and visit on one of their open days, as a working farm they are not open to the public every day.
Other vineyards..
Sedlescombe is Britain’s oldest organic vineyard with a new eco friendly tasting room which I have yet to visit, likewise Oastbrook which even offers hobbit themed accommodation. Carr Taylor Wines planted their vines in 1971, a very good year for wine and people, I am ashamed to say I have yet to visit but I can attest to their medal winning prowess.
Should you fancy a spot of delicious food beside the calm waters of the Rother then I cannot recommend Lime Wharf Cafe highly enough, especially for kids. This is one of those magical unpretentious spots that suits all ages, with exceptional food, wine and cocktails on hand, making life much easier for everybody. You can also hire a canoe, paddleboard or boat for very little money and potter down to Bodiam Castle whilst admiring the birdlife on the river or just take the grassy riverpath (and the dog). There is also run a well-managed campsite. Bodiam Boating Station offers a perfect option for those that love the outdoors and prefer to spend less on their accommodation.
The Sussex Wine protected designation of origin which was established in 2022 is the only existing regional wine PDO in England. Wines must meet strict quality criteria to qualify as Sussex, the level of ripeness, picking method and area of origin are all assessed.
Sussex Winelands has the support of both local and national government and aims to launch a series of new wine trials across Sussex. For more information, please visit www.sussexwinelands.com.
Header image: Mountfield Winery vineyard
