In many ways it seems ironic that such a family-friendly National Trust day out is also the seat of over three centuries of scandal, but there it is. First established by Stephen de Cliveden in the 13th century, the Cliveden estate in Buckinghamshire was purchased by George Villiers, 2nd Duke of Buckingham, in the 1660s who, as a member of the Cabal ministry, a private group of councillors advising Charles II, desired a mansion expressly for entertaining notable political figures. Yet this was only the first incarnation of Cliveden as a key meeting place for the most important figures of the day.
As the former home of Nancy Astor, wife of the 2nd Viscount Astor and the first woman to take her seat in parliament in 1919, few estates in England can be said to have a more fascinating story than Cliveden, nor one so entwined with political history and intrigue. But it was the 1963 political scandal known as the ‘Profumo Affair’ which changed the course of Cliveden’s ownership; when Secretary of State for War, John Profumo, lied to Parliament about his affair with 19-year-old showgirl Christine Keeler, to whom he had been introduced at a party held by William ‘Bill’ Astor, the 3rd Viscount at Cliveden. Lord Astor was also accused of an affair with Keeler’s showgirl cohort, Mandy Rice-Davis, and the relentless tabloid coverage and loss of reputation had a devastating impact on the Astors, who left Cliveden and handed the Grade I listed Italianate mansion, parkland and gardens to the management of the National Trust a few years later following Bill’s death.
Nowadays Cliveden operates as both a 5 star luxury hotel and a National Trust site granting public access to what was formerly enjoyed by only the privileged few, including 400 acres of spectacular woodland and landscaped gardens featuring a 4 acre formal parterre to the south of the house which is one of the largest in Europe and a picturesque Japanese-inspired Water Garden believed to be the first East Asian styled garden in the country. The impressive Cliveden Maze, based on the one designed for the 1st Viscount Astor in 1894, meanwhile boasts over 500 metres of paths winding amongst two-metre high hedges and covers almost one third of an acre, making it the same size as the world-famous Hampton Court Maze.
Set high above the River Thames with breathtaking views, best seen from the high terrace on the south side of the mansion, Cliveden is one of the National Trust’s most popular pay-for-entry attractions, welcoming more than half a million visitors a year. Open daily, the garden has been designed to offer an abundance of colour throughout the colder months, with a new perennial planning scheme in the Long Garden to provide interest as well as habitat and food sources for wildlife. For many, Cliveden is at its most magical come the winter when the abundant red berries of the Cotoneaster x watereri in the Water Garden come into their own, along with the Long Garden’s colourful Cornus ‘Midwinter Fire’ and vibrant purple berries of the Callicarpa bodinieri var. Giraldi ‘Profusion’, commonly known as the ‘Beautyberry’.
From now until 4th January, Cliveden at Christmas: The Nutcracker will delight visitors of all ages with a new installation featuring Christmas trees, sparkling bauble arches and oversized candy canes inspired by the Sugar Plum Fairy’s ‘Land of Sweets’, offering plenty of selfie opportunities. You’ll find giant Nutcracker soldiers standing guard in the Long Garden with its freshly cut topiary and a twinkling scene will greet you on passing through the golden gates of the Sounding Chamber, all the more magical when local school choirs and youth groups sing favourite carols on selected dates in November and December.
Extended opening hours on Thursdays and Fridays until 19th December give winter visitors the chance to enjoy the estate’s festive atmosphere with family and four-legged friends a little longer. There are many season-appropriate activities for children to experience (see the dedicated ‘50 things to do before you’re 11¾’ guide on the website) and they’ll love getting active outdoors at the Woodland Play Trail, featuring log stepping stones and balancing beams, or the Storybook Play Den with carved wooden figures and structures for little ones to run around and climb. The estate is also extremely dog friendly, with a series of walking routes taking in the expansive beauty of the Thames Valley.
The Conservatory Café will be serving hot turkey baps, festive toasties and their comforting mince pie hot chocolate when you need refuelling after your walk and before a browse in the second-hand bookshop. You can find a souvenir of your time at Cliveden in the gift shop, stocked with seasonal, and in many cases locally-made, products that will make for lovely Christmas gifts and stocking fillers.
Christmas at Cliveden: The Nutcracker at National Trust Cliveden, Cliveden Road, Taplow, Maidenhead, Buckinghamshire, SL1 8NS until until Sunday 4 January 2026. Take advantage of extended opening hours on Thursdays and Fridays until 19th December (6pm with last entry at 5.30pm). For more information visit the website.
Photography by Hugh Mothersole and John Miller.
