In the first instalment of a three-part series for The Arbuturian, Philip Cottam steps away from the British skiing herd and into the Dolomites, where dramatic scenery, improbably smooth logistics and excellent skiing suggest we may all have been choosing the wrong Alps for years…
The most popular resorts for British skiers tend to be found in France, Austria and Switzerland. Italian resorts, on the other hand, are way down the list. There are some notable exceptions – places like Cervinia, Courmayeur, and Sauze d’Oulx – but despite their affordability, relaxed and family-friendly atmosphere the Italian alternatives are just not as popular or as well-known.
The Dolomites deserve a lot more of our attention – the scenery is truly dramatic with cathedral like rock architecture and they also contain some of the best skiing in the European Alps. As if this were not enough, they’re serviced by one of the best organised and inter-connected lift systems covering over 1200 kilometre of piste with some 450 lifts. As for access by air, flights to Bolzano bring most of western and central resorts within easier striking distance than from Innsbruck.
Even with the introduction of cheap air fares the only downside of a ski trip, barring relentlessly bad weather or an unfortunate accident on the slopes, continues to be enduring the journey from home to the resort in question and back again – or so I thought until my recent trip to the Dolomites. This time I flew from Gatwick to Bolzano with SkyAlps, a recently founded Italian regional airline, and it was a revelation.
They only use De Havilland Canada Dash 8-400 aircraft which are propeller driven and carry a maximum of about 80 passengers. As a result, there were no queues either at Gatwick and certainly not at Bolzano as they are the only airline using the airport. For skiing in the Dolomites the road transfers are noticeably shorter than from Innsbruck whether heading to the Brenta, as I was, or to the Val Gardena and Alta Badia. The price is a little higher than for one of the major airlines but there are no extras for choosing your seat or for your baggage. The views are spectacular and the wine included an excellent Pinot Negra from the Dolomites and came served from a bottle.
Having sailed through passport control we had an enjoyable drive through some dramatic scenery from Bolzano to the small village of Pinzolo and our spa hotel – the Lefay – on the edge of the main Brenta ski area at Madonna di Campiglio. After a welcome drink (a healthy juice – this was a spa, after all) and finding our room, I was able to hire the skis and boots that I needed from the branch of one of the local ski shops that was actually inside the hotel.
As for the ski room it was the smartest I have ever seen, carpeted, with a seating area where a screen provided snow and weather information and lockers whose code could be added to my room key. I soon discovered that the latter was unnecessary as there was always a helpful concierge present. As for getting to the gondola that goes up to the main slopes there was no need to take a bus, let alone shuffle the few hundred yards involved, as the hotel provided a constant shuttle service in both directions.
Pinzolo is too easily overlooked because of its size. There may only be one gondola up to the main slopes, which I suspect could become quite crowded by mid-morning in the high season and at weekends but, once up the mountain, there is more than enough to entertain most people on a week-long ski holiday whether as a party of friends or as a family.
There are excellent facilities for beginners. For intermediates there are some challenging reds and for the more ambitious a number of good black runs. All of these against the dramatic backdrop of the rock architecture of the Brenta Dolomites – though, sadly, as the weather was mostly cloudy during my stay I only had the occasional brief view when the sun managed to break through some of the persistent clouds.
I quickly identified the two best places for a hot chocolate break and a good lunch. The busiest was the next to the start of the main slopes at Pra Rodont (1504m) where the gondola from the village ended and where a second gondola took one to the summit of Dos de Sabion (2100m). It provided a simple self-service menu that included a decent lasagne bolognese and some tasty meatballs. Best of all was their hot chocolate.
For lunch the secret was to eat either early or late. I chose the latter as by then the lunchtime rush was over. The best place to eat was at Dos de Sabion, not just because the views were spectacular when the sun shone but because it was less crowded and there was more choice. There were in effect three separate place to eat – a gourmet restaurant where booking was advisable to guarantee a table, a well-appointed café-restaurant and a smaller bar.
For those who want to spread their wings and ski further afield the Pinzolo Campiglio Express gondolas I and II take you down into Madonna di Campiglio (1524m) that lies at the heart of the Brenta-Adamello ski area. On exiting you are right next to the Campiglio Express III gondola that gives access to the wide range of skiing on Monte Pancugolo (2276m). My advice would be to head there before lunch as you need to allow time to get back to the Pra Rodont gondola above Pinzolo before it closes.
Otherwise, as there is no ski shuttle bus service between Madonna di Campiglio and Pinzolo, you would need to get a taxi for the twenty-minute drive back. The ski back, once you have got up the two gondolas that lead back to the slopes above Pinzolo, is far more fun and would more than justify a sport massage or a sauna followed by a swim in the excellent spa at Lefay. There is then the delightful prospect of a glass of local fizz in their spectacular bar.
Hopefully, I have whetted your appetite to give skiing in the Dolomites a try. If not, maybe Parts II and III of this feature, which will introduce you to the Alta Badia and the Val Gardena, both just as accessible from Bolzano as the Brenta and, like almost anywhere in Italy, with lots of excellent food and wine, will do the trick.
For more information about Lefay resorts, including details of experiences, please visit www.dolomiti.lefayreorts.com. For an introduction to Madonna di Campiglio, including live updates on ski lifts and slopes, as well as details for ski passes and events, please visit www.campigliodomiti.it.
Philip flew with Sky Alps direct to Bolzano. For more information, including fares, please visit www.skyalps.com.
Philip’s trip in the ‘wrong’ Alps continues next week as he discovers La Villa and Alta Badia, where skiing comes with unusually good supporting acts…
