Reading the guest book in my suite at The Witchery by the Castle, you’d believe all the world was in love: page after page of stories about proposals, anniversaries and first weekends away without the kids that have taken place here. Decked out in sumptuous gothic style and up to its turrets in history (the building dates to 1595) it’s very clear that this tiny Edinburgh hotel has romance in mind. A bottle of champagne on ice upon arrival, a deep roll-top bath with Penhaligon’s bubbles, even breakfast served to your suite in a wicker hamper so you don’t have to bother tumbling out of bed…shame I’m staying solo on this occasion!
The Rectory, one of nine suites, looks rather like how I imagine the private quarters of a debauched Catholic priest; swathed in velvet drapes of Cardinal’s robe red, it’s packed with tapestries and ecclesiastical-style furniture. Antique church candlestick holders stand on altar-like marble tables and cherubs frolic in the clouds on the frescoed bathroom ceiling.
Looking out the suite’s windows onto the Royal Mile, mist swirling around the castle walls and a solitary bagpiper playing below, it’s hard to believe that four hours ago I was in central London. The Virgin train journey itself holds some memorable views, particularly once you pull away from the bridges of Newcastle and rush alongside the Berwickshire coastline, looking out over the unending blue (tip: sit on the left side of the carriage forward-facing). After arriving into Waverley I puffed uphill to the heart of the old town, with its steep, narrow closes and blackened stone buildings, feeling like I was travelling back through the centuries the further I ascended.
The Witchery is tucked into one of these little passageways, marked by a heraldic sign that always seems to have a crowd of tourists photographing it. At the end of the close is the main candlelit restaurant and reception, while mot of the suites lay up a spiralling stone staircase.
Inside, this cocoon of claret and gold takes a long time to explore – it’s a veritable cabinet of curiosities. Vintage snowshoes are stowed away near crocodile-skin suitcases and a tin full of foreign coins, an old guard’s uniform stands beside the fireplace, glass paperweights and solid silverware are laid on the dining table, and bookcase walls conceal ‘secret’ doorways (albeit only to the loo and wardrobe). There are less museum-worthy additions, too, such as a pair of hair straighteners and Nespresso machine.
Though I imagine a lot of guests barely venture out of the suites, you should at least trot downstairs to sample James Thomson’s award-winning food. Produce such as Loch Duart salmon, Isle of Mull hand-dived scallops and crowdie from Knockraich prove that Scotland has some of the finest ingredients you’ll find anywhere on earth, while the setting is as all-out theatrical and seductive as the suites: think red leather banquettes and candlelight flickering on antique wood paneling. There’s also The Secret Garden dining room, in a pretty enclosed courtyard with adjoining terrace –the Scottish weather does occasionally permits al fresco dining, apparently.
Visiting a couple of days after Halloween, and swept up in the gothic magic of the place, I ventured still further afield to go on a city ghost tour. My first, and only, mistake of the trip… Because, despite being hugely entertaining, it turns out that stories about ghouls and witchcraft are not what you need to hear when you’re staying somewhere with old guardsmen costumes in the corner and secret doorways, somewhere named after the fact dozens of accused witches were put to death on its very doorstep. All I could do was climb under the velvet bedspread and hoped the malevolent spirits would stop off at some other suite.
Some hours later, I awoke with a start at a strange tapping at the door. Thankfully, it was just my breakfast hamper being delivered.
Suites are priced at £325 – £395 per night including a breakfast hamper served in your suite, newspapers, mineral water and a complimentary bottle of Champagne. For more information, visit www.thewitchery.com.
Virgin Trains East Coast travel from London Kings Cross to Edinburgh in 4hrs 20minutes. For more information, visit www.virgintrainseastcoast.com.
