As the Loire Valley celebrates 25 years as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Jane Wilson skips across the Channel to rediscover what makes its enduring appeal – and a tour in a fancy car certainly helps…
It was like walking onto a movie set. The silhouette of a French chateau framed the Cadillac gleaming in the sunlight, a stylish boutique hotel blissful in its enviable location within landscaped acres of a private estate encircled by an historic moat. This, however, was not something conjured up in the mind of a Hollywood art director, it was a luxury tourism experience in the heart of central France, renowned for its rich landscape, wines, the cities of Blois and Orléans, and medieval towns like Chinon. Often referred to as the ‘Garden of France’ for the fertile lands along its riverbed, it is also known as the Valley of the Kings.
Photo by Jean-Michel Turpin (courtesy of Relais de Chambord)
The hotel at the heart of this experience was Relais de Chambord. Opened in 2018, it was originally built in the 16th century as the King’s stable for the Château de Chambord. It offers 55 guest rooms and suites, including 15 with a view of the Château and formal gardens, others enjoy a view of the Cosson river, all with décor to reflect a unique perspective of the location.
Inside, the hotel’s chic design joins forces with a country house style: a library-themed lobby, a billiard table and fireplaces in elegant living rooms, objet d’art to surprise around every corner, and sculptures leaping from walls. As if that’s not enough, a ‘floating’ suite lies onboard a traditional flat-bottomed boat two minutes away. And to double dose on this tranquil haven, there is a small wellness area with two treatment rooms, steam room, sauna and outside jacuzzi. It’s a hotel designed to blend seamlessly into its surroundings.
Outside, gracing the gravel driveway, the gold Cadillac Sedan Fleetwood awaited. Built in 1964, at an imposing near 6-metres in length, it is often referred to as the Rolls Royce of American cars. It’s easy to see why. A squashy interior of black leather bench seats bordered with varnished woodwork in hardtop pillarless style, and – the innovation of the time – electric windows. All powered by a monstrous V8 engine, it is the car favoured by Elvis, Marlene Dietrich and US Presidents. This, surely, was a unique way to capture rural French life in style. In this head-turning ride, the tour transported us under tunnels of shading trees and along quiet, wending roads as we looked out to the rolling landscape of the Garden of France.
Of course, this is wine country, and the Cadillac’s first stop called at a local family-owned vineyard, Domaine des Huards, a 42 hectare estate in Cour-Cheverny. For over seven generations it has been owned by the Gendrier family, who practice biodynamic farming under ideal growing conditions, with vines sitting on limestone and surrounded by forests, ponds and prairies.
Five different grape varietals produce mineral fresh, light wines that reflect the taste of the Loire region, including a Pinot-Noir and Gamay giving a fresh and fruity bouquet with aromas of cherry, citrus fruits and redcurrant, and a must-try of sparkling Crémant de Loire, a blend of dominant Chardonnay and Pinot-Noir.
Following the last sip, we ventured in search of old-fashioned home cooking. encountering Le Col Vert Inn, in a small village called Bauzy. (aubergelecolvert.fr). The original architecture and style of this authentic restaurant had been preserved to reveal the old beams, a cast iron stove, bricks and tiles made of the region’s Sologne clay. Inside, we tucked into grandmother’s chicken, roasted on a spit in the old fireplace, served with rustic pommes purees.
This was followed by dessert, and another French classic. “Cream doesn’t leave the spoon,“ our host explained, as we were served tarte tatin and a dollop of thick cream, as if straight off the urn. We were surrounded by family treasures on show, from tableware to furniture, crockery and glasses. This was cosy, traditional and homely hospitality at its French best, and the hotel offers these engaging travel experiences to lure guests away from its movie setting just long enough to miss it. So, before long, it was time to cruise in the Cadillac back to the majestic Château.
About which, I must dwell a little more. Built in 1519, at the request of the young prince, Francois I, the Château de Chambord is an emblematic representation of French Renaissance style – a unique architectural jewel towering to the sky with turrets, spires, and a central tower with classical renaissance structures. Famous around the world for its amazing double helix staircase, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci, this leads to a cornucopia of chimneys and terraces.
It was not designed as a permanent residence but a show-off in stone to symbolise the power enjoyed by French royalty. In 1940, the Château was registered on the first list of French historical monuments and, since 1981, it has been inscribed on UNESCO’s world heritage list. It’s also popular for concerts; Sting and the Black-Eyed Peas have performed in front of its facade. It is the second most visited attraction in France after Versailles, with 77 staircases, 282 fireplaces, nine floors and is the biggest closed park in Europe.
In 2016, after 12 years of research, the previous 18th century gardens from Louis XV’s era were reinstated. Laid out like embroidery patterns, the landscaped formal gardens are carpeted with grass, knitted with trees stitched with flower beds and entwined with gravel pathways. Since 2017 Chambord has been creating new trails that allow visitors into parts of the grounds that were previously closed to the public.
The hotel arranges a host of activities in its environs, from tours of the Château to bicycles (and e-bikes) to explore the forest and grounds along marked routes, guided by the turrets of the castle to steer you back. Others include a hot air balloon-ride, boating on the waterways around the Château, or exploring 20km of paths to explore the nature reserve with a forest guide. But leave time to stroll around during your stay, enjoy the formal gardens, camera in hand to capture the timelessness of this Château adorned in former glory, flooded in daylight, drenched in the evening rays, wistful in the haze of sunrise, dreamy and romantic at sunset.
Such activities build an appetite, naturally, easily sated by the hotel’s fine dining experience in Le Grand Saint-Michel elegant restaurant. Creative dishes are made from local ingredients and from Chambord’s vegetable gardens to offer tempting seasonal five or seven course menus. Think Land Duck Foie Gras with Veal Sweetbreads and Port Jelly, Angus Sirloin with Brazilian Black Pepper flambéed in Cognac or Roasted Pike Perch on the Skin, enjoyed in the stately dining room or on the terrace with views of the Chateau. What’s notable is that the estate is still home to hunting of wild boar and deer often featured on the menu. For more casual dining, there is Les Armes du Chateau, minutes from the hotel.
As the sun descended, the light show commenced, bathing the Château in hues of colour. Watched from my hotel window, this was my fairy-tale movie finale. It brought the curtain down on a tranquil, historic and sublimely picturesque two-night experience at the Relais de Chambord. Perhaps the definitive way to celebrate the Loire’s UNESCO anniversary.
Eurostar from London St Pancras International to Paris Gare du Nord takes 2 hours 20 minutes. Transfers take 1.5 hours from Paris and can be arranged with the hotel. Room rates at the Relais de Chambord start from €141 a night, room only. For more information, please visit www.relaisdechambord.com.
