Whisper it, but slowly and steadily, the Delamina group of restaurants is becoming one of London’s most talked-about and all-round excellent spots to sample Middle Eastern cuisine and wine at not-too-frightening prices. I had fond memories of an exceptionally fine dinner at the Marylebone Lane spot last year, and so when I heard that they were opening a new establishment – their third – in Covent Garden, I was exceptionally keen to visit. Had they managed to maintain a level of consistency that would mean that this would join the coveted top spots in the little black book, or would, on this occasion, the third time not prove the charm?
I needn’t have worried. Everything about a visit to Delamina Townhouse, snugly situated a short walk from the main drag on Covent Garden, is imbued with both high-end professionalism and sincere friendliness that makes dinner here another cracking experience.
As soon as you are shown into the comfortable, stylish room – all soft fibres and tastefully muted colours, it’s almost Scandinavian, were it not for the fact that the food is decidedly not – and then once you’ve tried one of the fine cocktails (the ‘Pomegoni’, a pomegranate-infused Negroni, is particularly excellent) and sampled some crispy mushrooms and some kubaneh bread with tahini, zhoug and smoky aubergine, you’ll know that you are in good hands.
If you are not partial to yoghurt – fine, creamy, gently spiced and beautifully flavoured yoghurt – then Delamina Townhouse may not be the spot of your dreams. But if you don’t have such a bewildering taste bypass, you are in for a treat. An earnest discussion with our charming waitress, into whose capable hands we place ourselves, sees us order a trio of small plates to start, a melt-in-the-mouth beef and lamb kofta, a chalk stream trout with labneh and a slightly overwhelming plate of cauliflower, which appears, uncompromisingly armed with lemon crème fraiche and pomegranate molasses, and demands to be eaten. A carafe of white from the Bekaa Valley is a fine accompaniment; all is very well.
There then follows a discussion about how many larger plates we should order. One per person sounds sensible, but the waitress tells us that it would be shame not to get a comprehensive overview of the menu, and she is correct. Therefore we order a carnivorous dish – a very fine charcoal-grilled lamb with carrot puree – and a light fish dish of seared tuna with avocado, and then an extra, in the form of a whole crispy seabass, complete with wronged-looking head still present, appears, as if by magic.
It’s all sublime, as is a side dish of crispy potatoes with (oh yes) garlic-infused yogurt, and the bottle of Israeli Argman red wine that is recommended is the perfect match. None of this is fancy or obscure; all of it is excellent. We shouldn’t really have room for pudding, but we manage a chocolate mousse as good as any I’ve had in London and a vanilla cheesecake cream on a wonderfully delicate kadayif nest, washed down with a glass of ice wine. And then after a distinctly necessary palette-cleanser of a very fine mint tea, it’s out into a Friday night scene in Covent Garden, replete and happy in the knowledge that Delamina pt 3 is rather closer to a Back To The Future 3 than a dismal Godfather part III. Long may it remain so.
Delamina Townhouse, 13-15 Tavistock St, London WC2E 7PS. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.delaminakitchen.co.uk.
