Amid Majorca’s rolling hills and olive groves, Alice Payne finds a tranquil retreat where nature and wellness take centre stage…
I’m sitting on the garden terrace of my suite, watching the late afternoon sun bathe the Majorcan hills in shades of gold. Before me, as far as the eye can see, are views of gently rolling hills, covered in olive and almond trees from which birdsong is radiating. As I watch, a soft breeze makes patterns through the foliage, bringing scents of salvia across the warm air.
How much time passes I don’t know, but my reverie is finally broken by a persistent rustling, as thirty wild goats start to digest their way across the foreground, scrambling into olive trees and flavouring their banquet with mouthfuls of the rosemary growing metres from my feet.
They’re mildly wary of me, but they know they’re welcome here. These wandering goats are a charming feature of the Carrossa Hotel & Spa, which bills itself as Majorca’s relaxed five-star resort. Their presence feels fitting in a hotel built around a 300-year-old finca and carefully designed to blend into the northeast’s spectacular scenery. I’d met some of them earlier on the steps to the outdoor pool, and while other hotels might chase mountain goats away, the Carrossa’s friendly ethos extends to all.
It’s this air of stylish rusticity that makes the Carrossa feel like a true retreat – one of understated luxury ensconced in nature. At its heart is an estate house with pine green shutters and a centuries-old courtyard where low walls encircle ancient, twisting olive trees. Modern buildings have been added in warm stone and glass, preserving the original aesthetic to create dining rooms, a spacious spa, a vaulted bar, a sea-view terrace and 45 bedroom suites (in addition to 30 rooms in the main house).
These airy suites are reached via sand-coloured paths that pass under old arches and wind their way through the grounds like tributaries, passing prickly pears, aloe vera plants and fragrant lavender. Being here is a multisensory experience and the hotel’s setting in 800 acres of nature feels a world away from the busy hubs of Palma and Magaluf, across the island.
From these expansive grounds it’s hard to spot another building in the circumference of hills that dip away to reveal the turquoise sea of Alcúdia Bay. Tranquillity reigns here, and while the hotel offers packages to enjoy the nearby golf courses of Capdepera, Canyamel, Son Servera and Alcanada, the focus onsite is the spa, reflected in the peaceful migration of dressing-gowned guests returning to their suites at the end of each day.
Their serenity is understandable. The Carrossa is part of the family-owned German Hamacher brand, whose influence is evident in the spa’s quality. Spa-ing is taken seriously here and its spacious, minimalist design with clean lines and pale greys enhances my relaxation.
In addition to a gym, treatment rooms and a large indoor pool, the spa facilities include a hot Finnish sauna, a humid bio sauna and a steam room; each spacious, clothing optional. Nearby there’s every type of shower imaginable, including an austere-looking bucket and chain ominously close to an ice fountain. Three footbaths outside the saunas provide a gentler way to cool off, with tubs of salt for added detoxification.
Floor to ceiling windows stretch across one side of the spa complex, flooding its relaxation rooms with light while providing a panoramic backdrop of nature. It’s an inviting space to read or snooze and it’s also where early morning yoga classes take place – an experience I savour, starting the day with these views.
To ensure peak relaxation, I also indulge in a back massage with aromatic almond oil, to the soothing sound of windpipes. My therapist does an impressive job of untangling knots and relieving tension, and the session ends with cinnamon smoke wafting through the room, providing a gentle awakening that helps me peel my supine body off the bed and return to reality.
Luckily, reality is lovely here. Between walks in the grounds, sea-view lunches, and laps in the outdoor infinity pool, the rest of the world melts away like the morning mist that clings to the hills each morning. But for those who want to venture elsewhere, the ancient town of Artà is just three miles away.
I spend an afternoon visiting its attractions, including the fortified Sanctuary of Sant Salvador whose church and courtyard – at the top of 180 steps – provide 360-degree views. Artà is also famous for its caves dripping in stalactites, as well as its weekly market and Carrer de Ciutat – a long pedestrianised street filled with artisan shops and cafes. Nearby, the Levant Nature Park is full of hiking trails, but I embark on a coastal walk along Colònia de Sant Pere and finish with a swim at the white-sand Sa Cànova beach.
The next afternoon I find myself learning to cook paella on the Carrossa’s terrace under the guidance of chef Patricio, who reveals how to enjoy it properly. “Tourists eat paella at night,” he explains. “But here we eat it for lunch on weekends – and we always cook it outside.” Under his stewardship, the results are excellent, prefaced by starters of mushroom croquetas, ham and cheese boards, juicy olives, whipped aioli and freshly baked bread.
Although the Carrossa has plenty of healthy options across its two restaurants – whose menus focus on mediterranean cuisine and local, seasonal products – there’s also ample opportunity for indulgence. I enjoy the Bistro’s lighter meals during the day – with dishes such as salmon sashimi salad, crispy ham croquetas, grilled squid and ‘Frito Mallorquin’ – a local dish of seasoned, stir-fried meat, potatoes and vegetables.
At night, I choose the Restaurant’s four-course menu with its artfully presented dishes. Breakfast combines the hotel’s Spanish and German heritage to provide one of the most extensive breakfast buffets I’ve experienced – with every combination of meats, cheeses, grains, fruits, vegetables, breads and pastries, as well as numerous cooked options. In fact, breakfast regularly segues into its own three-course meal, eased along by views of a veranda bursting with fuchsia bougainvillea.
My suite is equally serene: minimalist, tranquil, in natural materials and earthy tones, with a design that flows from bedroom to sitting room to terrace to hills, and a bathroom whose luxury echoes the spa. It would be tempting to spend all my time here, if the outside weren’t so enticing.
After a long weekend, it’s with the greatest reluctance that I step inside my taxi to the airport, feeling slightly like I’m leaving Eden. As I head off down the long drive, passing the ancient grove of olive trees, I pass the goats a final time and wonder if they know how lucky they are.
For more information about the Carrossa Hotel & Spa, visit www.carrossa.com.
