In Part Two of our Maldivian double bill, Karen Yates heads to Baros, where sharks are polite, coral is flamboyant, and the luxury is quietly impossible to resist…
I’m snorkelling above Baros house reef, just metres from the small island’s white, sandy beach and palm trees. At dinner last night there was talk of sharks interspersed with nervous laughter; other guests had seen some but I hadn’t – and I was hoping to keep it that way. Today, as I sink into the warm Indian Ocean and dip my head beneath the surface I’m hypnotised by all the life: the diverse shapes and sizes of the corals, some neon orange and blue; orange and black Maldivian anemonefish (like Nemo but with just one white stripe); the pointed-headed unicorn fish; yellow and black angel fish; vibrant blue surgeonfish with a yellow strip along its dorsal fin; yellow and black striped oriental sweetlips; powder blue parrot fish; yellowback fusilier; bluefin trevally; bluestreak cleaner wrasse; ghostly looking white squid and scores more, all ignoring my presence as they feed off the healthy reef.
I come up for air, only to hear the dreaded word “Shark!”. I feel my heart pounding and consider how much I value my legs. And there it is, just like the monster from Jaws, only smaller, the menacing music from the film in my head as it glides past. I keep still, but it makes a sharp 90-degree turn towards me, intent in its beady eyes, slender suckerfish on either side of it like tiny henchmen. I’m sure I heard somewhere that you’re meant to lie flat on the seabed if this happens, but instead I find myself swimming as fast as humanly possible to get away.
“Did you see it?” other snorkellers ask when I think (hope) I’m safe. “Yes, terrifying,” I respond. Our guide, marine biologist Shuga, who grew up on the island, surfaces, all smiles. “That was lucky, not many people get to see Finnie,” she tells us. Lucky? It turns out Finnie is a blacktip reef shark who lost her dorsal fin but managed to adjust to life without it. “There are plenty more sharks on the reef,” Shuga adds, “but Finnie is my favourite.” Who knew you could have a favourite shark? Then, most importantly, she tells us: “There’s never been a shark attack in the Maldives. They won’t hurt you unless you attack them, so just keep still. They’re inquisitive, that’s all.”
Once we establish we won’t be torn limb from limb and we may see more sharks – including whitetip reef sharks and larger nurse sharks – we resume snorkelling, and it’s a serene experience. The fear had vanished and I could focus again on the incredible underwater world of colour, life and movement, as the kaleidoscope of fish glide and dart around the reef.
Earlier, back at Baros’s PADI Five-Star Gold Palm Resort dive centre, one of the Maldives’ first dive centres, Shuga had briefed us about the rules of snorkelling: don’t try to touch the fish, if they want to approach you that’s fine but don’t chase them, avoid standing on the coral because this can harm it and remember that we are the visitors and are in their space. These rules we observe as we snorkel over a sunken boat, also teaming with tropical fish, and the metal frames Shuga had placed on the seabed to encourage coral to grow around them. Even when a couple of blacktip reef sharks slide past me, I feel calm and continue to enjoy the marine life and the bright sunlight casting white ripples around us like an underwater Hockney painting. Alas, turtles eluded us, but these also live on the reef.
This serenity remains throughout my stay at award-winning Baros on North Malé Atoll, a 25-minute speedboat ride from Malé airport. From the moment I arrive and am handed the first of a great many Acqua di Palma-soaked hand towels and am introduced to my butler, Shinta, who organises everything for me, I know this is going to be a relaxing stay.
Shinta, who comes from Bali, walks with me to my water villa along a path parallel to the beach, through plenty of well-established tropical greenery; Baros was the third hotel to open in the Maldives, back in 1973. I’m struck not only by the tropical flora but the fauna too, birds I’ve never seen before walking around, lizards and geckos scuttling along the path, flying foxes hanging from the trees even during the day.
My spacious water villa stands on stilts over the intensely bright aquamarine water and I’m greeted with a complimentary half bottle of Moët, a large bed that looks out over a private deck with a day bed and infinity pool to the Indian Ocean, with a sunset view in the evening. Each villa is designed to be completely private, and steps from the deck down to the water allow guests to snorkel whenever they like. The bathroom also has a view from the shower out to sea and is stocked with Acqua di Parma products. This being very much a honeymoon destination, it’s a well-designed space where guests are likely to want to spend a lot of time.
I decide instead to be social and head for a light lunch at Sails Bar, built on the site of an old coconut plantation. The bar itself is pretty much as it was when Baros opened 52 years ago, with some refurbishment. It’s particularly pleasant to sit under one of the many palm trees in the adjacent Palm Garden and enjoy a light lunch. I order the meaty tiger prawn skewers with zaatar that come with freshly made flatbread, pickled vegetables and chimichurri, plus an ABC (apple, beetroot and carrot juice).
For a more substantial lunch or supper there’s Cayenne Grill, overlooking the lagoon, where I order the traditional Maldivian salad to start, followed by a rich and decadent risotto with generous amounts of lobster along with roasted artichoke, saffron, Parmesan and leeks. Cayenne Grill is also where the seafood market is held every Thursday evening. This is when the local market delivers fresh local fish (lobster, prawns, red snapper, tuna and squid, with salmon imported from Australia among the vast array) and you take your pick of what you’d like to have cooked. Or choose à la carte – I opt for the lobster curry, spicy rather than hot and served with plain rice.
When it was built 20 years ago, The Lighthouse Restaurant was the first two-storey building in the Maldives. It’s a lovely spot for a sunset cocktail with magnificent views out to sea and is described as serving French fine dining with an international twist. The cognac flambéed lobster bisque has been on the menu since the restaurant opened and is cooked on a portable stove at the end of the table, flames contrasting the dark night when the alcohol is added. I follow this with another starter – juicy seared sea scallops with spicy cauliflower purée, onion and coriander cress. A sommelier is on hand in all the restaurants to recommend accompanying wines from across the globe.
Breakfasts at Lime Restaurant cover every base: seasonal fruits (mango, jackfruit, papaya, soursop); yoghurts, cereals, breads; a whole gluten-free section; sushi and sashimi; cheeses, prosciutto, olives, kimchi, guacamole and olive tapenade to name but a few, as well as a fresh-cooked section to order whatever you like to be made for you. There’s even Champagne. All this plus à la carte choices. And if this weren’t enough, my butler Shinta suggests a Champagne breakfast on the Piano Deck, five minutes out at sea via a speedboat. I arrive to find a table filled with indulgent choices: Champagne, strawberries dipped in dark chocolate, pastries, cheeses, tropical fruit and more.
Shinta also suggests I try the Baros Signature Treatment in the Serenity Spa, one of the most beautiful spas I’ve visited, filled with mature tropical plants. Artha, also from Bali, applies coconut oil combined with De-stress Muscle Oil by Aromatherapy Associates for a combination of Balinese, deep tissue, Swedish and warm stone massages. I lie there for 90 minutes, listening to birds chirping outside, thinking that there are worse ways to spend a morning, and feel rejuvenated afterwards.
One final suggestion is yoga, also in the Serenity Spa, where Jeeg takes me through 30 minutes of asanas followed by a 15-minute sound bath, sounds seeming to come closer and retreat, then go from one side of my head to the other before swirling around the studio – much like the fish on the reef – despite him sitting in one place throughout. In addition, complimentary yoga sessions take place every morning at the Lighthouse Deck.
From snorkelling with tropical fish and benign sharks to eating fresh seafood with an ocean view, enjoying a Champagne breakfast out at sea, massages and yoga, this is one break that will stay with guests long after they depart this blissful island.
Room rates at Baros start from US$1,255 per night for a water villa for two people on a B&B basis. Baros is currently running 41% off ‘Bed & Breakfast’ offer on bookings. For more information, visit www.baros.com.
Return speedboat transfers from Malé airport can be organised by the hotel and cost from US$240.
