CUT has been serving some of London’s finest steaks at 45 Park Lane since 2011. Umesh Patel visits Wolfgang Puck’s elegant Mayfair outpost to experience the modern American steakhouse firsthand…
Dinner’s booked at CUT, so I promise myself a light lunch. No chance. My mother piles my plate with my favourite — steaming chicken biryani — and, as always, I cave. Now I’m stuffed and quietly cursing my lack of willpower.
If you’re heading to CUT, skip a meal. Do an intermittent fast, a 72-hour cleanse; whatever it takes. Just make sure you turn up hungry. You’ll need the room.
We step inside 45 Park Lane, the iconic Bauhaus hotel. Our eyes are immediately drawn to the long, elegant dining room, framed by floor-to-ceiling velvet drapes and bathed in soft pools of light. Above, a curious row of cloud-shaped fixtures twinkles like a constellation of stars. The décor is slick but not sterile. There’s no formal dress code, though the website suggests a “city chic” vibe and no sportswear. And rightly so, this is, after all, probably the swankiest place you’re likely to eat steak and chips.
It’s exactly the kind of setting you’d expect from a restaurant bearing the name Wolfgang Puck. The world-renowned chef-restaurateur earned his stripes in the kitchens of Maxim’s in Paris and the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco before hopping the Atlantic and doing what few chefs ever manage: becoming a household name in Hollywood. In the 80s, he launched Spago, then Chinois and eventually CUT; rewriting the rules of fine dining and filling his reservation books with A-listers. Between the restaurants, the TV appearances and his empire of branded pans and broths, Puck didn’t just ride the celebrity chef wave: he practically invented it.
Closer to home, CUT London’s kitchen is now in the capable hands of another culinary heavyweight and a familiar face on television. Elliott Grover, who’s done time at Le Caprice, Scott’s and Millie’s Lounge at The Ned, took over as executive chef in 2022. Since then, he’s expanded the menu, adding seafood dishes inspired by his Cornish roots.
We sip rosé champagne and eye the menu. A server appears with the day’s cuts, parading the board like it’s Sotheby’s. To be fair, it’s a solid line-up: a hefty tomahawk, UK grass-fed beef, Australian Wagyu and the prized Japanese Pure A5 Wagyu. We go for the Japanese sirloin and the Taste of CUT — a greatest-hits platter for the indecisive.
We begin with some amuses bouche: spicy tuna tartare in crisp cones and tasty little mini burgers. Then come the starters: a crab and lobster roll my guest says is “worth dying for” — high praise, even by their standards — and three fat Orkney scallops in their half shells, seared and swimming in garlic and chilli butter. They’re glorious, and the roe is still attached, which you don’t often see these days. We drink Wolfgang Puck’s own Pichl Grüner Veltliner 2019 from Dürnstein — crisp, clean and just sharp enough to cut through the richness.
The main course arrives, worthy of a drumroll. A medium rare slab of Japanese Wagyu, its marbling promising juicy, rich tenderness in every bite — so tender it practically sighs under the knife and, yes, it really melts like butter in your mouth. The fat tastes extraordinary, a slow, rich symphony of flavours much like Beethoven’s Seventh, the Allegretto — building to something deep, intense and unforgettable.
It’s served with a red wine Bordelaise sauce alongside chips. Our sommelier Davide suggests pairing it with Les Meysonniers Crozes Hermitage 2023 by M. Chapoutier, and a delightful choice it is; bold and elegant, with a smooth structure that balances the intense flavours of the beef.
With her tasting selection, my guest favours the Australian Wagyu — served with Argentinian chimichurri and roasted bone marrow that’s just as delicious. But for me, the Japanese sirloin wins hands down.
We finish with the dark chocolate soufflé and the tropical fruit Baked Alaska — a white chocolate buttermilk cake with passionfruit curd. Then comes a bit of table-side theatre: our server arrives with whipped crème fraîche, warm chocolate sauce and a scoop of gianduja ice cream, all ceremoniously poured into the soufflé. Give it a minute to melt into itself. Then dive in. Pure bliss.
The CUT experience is one to savour. Sure, you might have to sell a kidney or two, but it’s a meal you won’t forget anytime soon. And if you want to bring that magic home, why not have Elliott come cook for you? They’ve quietly launched CUT at Home, a luxury private dining experience that brings the restaurant straight to your doorstep.
A fully hosted evening with a bespoke three to four-course menu, including canapés on arrival, all crafted by Elliott himself. You even get a menu consultation beforehand to tailor the night exactly how you want it. Fine wines are paired throughout and there’s even a professional photographer to capture those perfect moments.
The table settings and floral designs are styled to match the elegance of the CUT dining room. It’s not just a meal. It’s an immersive, high-end hospitality experience, right in the comfort of your own home.
And the best part? You get all the glamour without having to wash up afterwards.
CUT, 45 Park Lane, London W1K 1PN. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.dorchestercollection.com. For private catering, please visit CUT at Home.
