Spending a few nights in Dubrovnik, Umesh Patel discovers it’s not the thrones or dragons that cast the real spell, but the sun, sea and a suite worth losing yourself in…
“Winter is coming…” A strange thought in mid-August, with the temperature outside nudging past 35 degrees, but the line – familiar to some from the television series Game of Thrones – enters my mind as Christian, my masseur, sets to work on my sore back in the cool, dimly lit treatment room.
Just a few hours earlier, I’d been wandering the cobbled streets of Dubrovnik’s Old Town, which doubled as the fictional city of King’s Landing in some of the show’s most memorable scenes. Tourism has soared since the popularity of the series and so has the number of souvenir shops selling everything from replica dragon eggs to your favourite character immortalised in, of course, a fridge magnet. After a long day in the heat, surrendering to a massage at the hotel spa felt like the best decision I’d made all day.
“How’s the pressure?” asks Christian, his thumb digging deep into a stubborn knot at the base of my shoulders. “Just right,” I gasp, as it hits the spot in that painful yet satisfying way.
With the calming scent of aromatherapy oils in the air and soft music playing in the background, I begin to drift. As I relax, a thought lingers: if tales of dragons draw visitors to Dubrovnik, what is it about the city that keeps them truly spellbound?
We’d arrived on an early flight, and stepping into the lobby of Hotel Dubrovnik Palace you’re met with the sort of contemporary décor we’ve come to expect from a five-star property: sleek, polished and perfectly pleasant. But it’s the floor-to-ceiling windows that grab you by the collar. They pull your gaze to a panoramic sweep of the Adriatic, shimmering in shades of turquoise and emerald, like a siren’s call you simply can’t look away from.
With our room not quite ready, the reception staff kindly relieved us of our luggage – which, mercifully, had narrowly avoided the airline’s dreaded measuring cage – and suggested we enjoy a complimentary drink while we waited. Naturally, champagne seemed the only appropriate choice, a sparkling prelude to the views and indulgence that awaited.
And it was worth the wait. Our Deluxe Suite promised that this would be a stay to remember. Over 70 square metres, it hits that tricky balance between spacious and cosy, with modern furnishings and thoughtful touches throughout. Two bedrooms and two bathrooms provide further indulgence: one with a walk-in rain shower, the other with a bathtub so deep you could lose yourself in it for hours. And both bedrooms and the lounge open onto a wide terrace, with views stretching across the sea to the Elaphite Islands and beyond.
One thing, often overlooked, deserves a mention. One evening, as the neighbours went full Ibiza with a DJ set and strobe lights on their terrace, I was moments from calling reception or resigning myself to a sleepless night when I slid the patio doors shut – and was greeted – as much to my relief as amazement – by blissful silence.
From the terrace, you could see the outdoor pool below, shimmering like a constant reminder to have an early morning swim before breakfast – which, of course, never happened. Instead, we settled for a leisurely afternoon paddle. Around the pool, sun loungers were plentiful, and if you’re precious about a particular spot, you can reserve one. No need for a pre-dawn towel dash – the pool staff have it all under control.
For those who prefer an open-water swim, ladders lead down from the deck into warm, crystal-clear waters. Back in London, I sometimes take a brisk dip in the cold, murky Hampstead Ponds – which can be magical, especially when swimming alongside a brood of ducklings – but gliding through water this clear and warm, while gazing at the horizon as the sun melted into the sea, was a sheer delight.
The spa’s outdoor jacuzzi is another wonderful spot to watch the sunset. As the sun begins to dip, the Adriatic comes alive, turning sea and sky into shades of pink, orange and deep crimson, accompanied by the gentle gurgling of the bubbles under the neon lighting around you.
Dinner at Maslina Tavern proved just as memorable, serving traditional Dalmatian cuisine – not for dogs, obviously – though the breed originates from the region – but the wonderful flavours of Croatia’s Adriatic coast, influenced by Mediterranean flavours, local produce and, of course, the sea. Fresh fish and shellfish are often grilled or baked simply with olive oil, garlic and herbs.
We started with oysters from Ston, widely regarded as among the best in Europe, accompanied by a chilled gazpacho, before moving on to the catch of the day. That evening, the choice was turbot and red mullet – two large fish presented to help us choose. We went with the turbot, baked in the oven alongside vegetables that had soaked up its flavour. Though intended for two, the portion was generous enough for four, meaty yet delicate and cooked to perfection, and beautifully paired with Šain-Marelić Sv. Ivan Pošip, a crisp Croatian white with subtle notes of citrus and fruit.
For those who prefer healthier options, the hotel has its Lean & Light restaurant. Located next to the wellness centre, it might sound like a post-gym obligation, but the menu is inventive, indulgent and healthy all at once.
Dishes include a cold soup made with avocado, spring onion, pepper and cucumber – the perfect refresher on a hot day – and a swordfish carpaccio with a balsamic and cognac dressing. The standout, however, was the sea bream fillet, baked in parchment with vegetables, couscous, butter and white wine, unwrapped at the table in a fragrant cloud of steam. All of it paired beautifully with Kutjevo Graševina Vrhunsko 2023, another local wine.
As the last sip lingered on my palate, it was easy to understand how the city and its beautiful coast cast such a quiet, irresistible spell. Come for the dragons if you must, but stay for the indulgence: the view from your terrace, the warm sea at your feet and seafood so fresh it was likely caught that very morning.
Dubrovnik Palace is proof that some spells don’t need fantasy – the Adriatic casts them all on its own.
Umesh flew directly from London Gatwick to Dubrovnik, with easyJet. Return fares start from £240 per person. For more details on flight schedules and prices, visit the easyJet website.
Hotel Dubrovnik Palace is part of Adriatic Luxury Hotels and offers 308 newly redesigned contemporary rooms and suites. Umesh stayed in a Deluxe Suite, with rates starting from €2,205 per night. For more information, visit: hoteldubrovnikpalace
