Grand Victorian buildings have often been turned into luxury hotels with extensive spas and in this respect South Lodge is no exception. In this case, there are some 92 acres of parkland, extensive lakes and ponds, tennis courts and other facilities not to mention a couple of vineyards. The gardens are gorgeous with the largest rhododendron in Europe (the size of a small hillock) and lots of wildlife wandering through – rabbits, deer and all manner of waterfowl.
Where South Lodge differs is both in its commitment to sustainability and its new cottages, known as the Reeds, built from upcycled materials, based around a lake where you can go wild swimming and filled with a British version of hygge from its hot tub on the terrace to its convincing fireplace that throws out real warmth as well as cosiness.
As winter takes its grip, hygge is much appreciated. My broad terrace extends over the lake and at 10.30 in the morning, half a dozen brave souls do indeed weather the bracing temperatures of the water. When you stay at the Reeds, in fact, you have to sign a promise not to jump in at some insane hour – though given at this time of year, I’m not particularly tempted and I think any sudden splashing might give the mallards a bit of a shock.
To describe Water Buttercup (my home for a night) as a cottage, however, doesn’t quite seem the mot juste. This is a gorgeous double height space (you go upstairs to bed) with a wall of glass looking out over the lake, a luxury bathroom (including a modernist freestanding bath) and a series of treats on the coffee table (half a bottle of sparkling English wine and their own blackberry flavoured cordial to make a very English kir royale and a couple of tiny “cakes”, a blueberry and honey macaroon and a seeded flapjack).
On a brief respite from the city, this is clearly going to make you feel relaxed but the USP of South Lodge (and especially its Reeds cottages) is you’re in quite extraordinarily lovely natural setting, the lake surrounded by massive ancient trees and cunningly designed so not another building is in sight once you’re inside your house. If you want to feel you have the place to yourself, this is a good spot to get away from the crowds. More likely, a deer will come into view to drink at the lake or you might send a few bunnies hopping on your way to the spa.
Ah, yes, the spa. Opened just after Covid, at its centre is a massive indoor pool and, outside, an extensive hydrotherapy pool with underwater massage and a shallow unheated natural pool where you can also swim (or maybe paddle) in the summer.
There are a handful of saunas and steam rooms and some of the best equipped changing rooms I’ve seen complete with Dyson hairdryers and Pelegrim products in the showers. Pelegrim is a local company that uses organic oils and extracts and focuses on by-products from grape skins, seeds and vines that are full of polyphenols, such as Resveratrol, that enrich the skin and boost its natural ability to restore and rejuvenate.
My treatment with therapist, Caroline, was the Fresh Leaf Fusion Face and Body Treatment, 80 minutes of vinotherapy at its most natural. It began with my choice of body oil, not easy but I went for the bergamot (always a favourite of mine) with lemon and ylang ylang, just the right balance of relaxation and heady scent. After this, I climbed on to the heated bed for a back cleanse followed by the application of a cleansing mask based on antioxidant vine leaves, that targets congestion and dullness while preparing the body for the deeper relaxation to come – a warm herbal poultice massage over that delicious oil.
Poultices are common in Indian ayurvedic massages and here they are filled with herbs and the effect – they are firmer than they might sound – is not dissimilar to a hot stone massage. Once I had turned over, there was a hydrating facial cleanse followed by a bio-cellulose mask infused with grapevine products to firm, brighten and refresh the skin and, while that was on, Caroline massaged by arms and legs, again using oil and poultices. It was a very relaxing (almost) hour and a half.
There are lots of classes available at the spa (including in the water), as well as a well-equipped gym and one of the few drawbacks of staying in the Reeds is that you are rather tucked away. Fortunately, they have overcome the problem in two ways. There is an enclosed buggy to pick you up and take you wherever you want to go on the estate. And, along with the other treats in the room you are provided with a Dry Robe (padded coat to go over your towelling dressing gown), which would be perfect for the North Pole. Don’t worry – we’re not talking Angela Raynor garish here, this is Barbour green on the outside with a fetching inner scarlet fleece.
In fact, I’m so delighted with this I wear it over my dress when the Major and I go for a splendid dinner at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, Camellia. There’s a wealth of local Sussex produce, including from the hotel’s own walled garden and they soon be ready to offer bottles of the hotel’s own wine produced from those newly planted vineyards.
The food was beautiful prepared and presented and definitely not designed for weight loss (though there is another spa restaurant inside the spa itself, Botanica). I had a succulent BBQ octopus with Jerusalem artichoke barigoule while the Major – with some trepidation – went for a smoked eel salad that he absolutely loved. The venison that followed (we both chose it!) was just perfect and we shared a side order of brussel sprouts with all kinds of flavourings including gentleman’s relish that proved utterly delicious.
Then it was back into the Dry Robe and the buggy to sit in front of that mesmerising fire – very quiet, very peaceful. The next morning, the air filled with birdsong and the Major and I don those Dry Robes again and head for an early swim and sauna. There are some places that really do offer winter hygge. They are few and far between. In the UK, I’d pinpoint this (along with Brimstone up in Cumbria, the subject of an earlier Spa of the Month) as the only two I know. I can guarantee you won’t want to leave.
South Lodge is part of the Exclusive Collection. For more information, including details of packages, offers and Valentine’s deals, please visit www.exclusive.co.uk.
