Doing It Their Way: Raising the Bar at Donovan’s

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There’s something reassuring about walking into Donovan’s Bar at Brown’s Hotel. Maybe it’s the plush seating, the glint of cut glass behind the bar, or simply the fact that the staff look like they know how to handle both a cocktail shaker and a diplomatic incident. Whatever it is, you instantly feel like you’re in safe hands — the sort that gently take your coat and then hand you something cold, crisp and deeply civilised.

And now, with the launch of their new menu Our Way, that sense of elegance-without-fuss has been bottled. Not literally, of course, but they’re taking classic cocktails and raising the bar, if you’ll pardon the pun.

Curated by Salvatore Calabrese — a man who probably dreams in perfect ratios — and Director of Mixology Federico Pavan, Our Way is not a reinvention. It’s more of a gentle reminder: this is how it’s done. No flaming marshmallows, no gin poured from a saxophone. Just beautifully made drinks with a wink to the classics and a whisper of modern flair.

The Marimo Martini, for example, takes its cues from the Vesper — a drink that says “spy” more than “spritz” — but adds a subtle seaweed infusion that brings a clean, mineral edge. It’s the sort of drink that wears cufflinks and reads Le Carré.

Then there’s the Bellini Colada, which sounds like it might be having an identity crisis but turns out to be a minor revelation — peachy, tropical, and finished with frozen cucumber for an unexpected cooling twist. It’s like being handed a cocktail by someone in a creased linen suit who also happens to be holding a fan.

You get the idea. These are familiar forms with clever details. The Eau de Martinez manages to be both spirit-forward and romantic, with gin, tequila, sherry, and just a hint of patchouli. If Don Draper took up aromatherapy, this is what he’d drink. Meanwhile, the Margarita Blush comes out looking like it’s off to a gala but packs enough mezcal to remind you it still knows how to misbehave.

Even the more decadent options don’t go overboard. The Tarte Old Fashioned is a warm, velvety take on the after-dinner cocktail, with ricotta, pear, and porcini bitters doing the kind of sweet-savoury balancing act you usually only get in very good Italian desserts.

What’s lovely is how the whole menu feels considered. The drinks are delicious, yes, but also thoughtful — like someone spent real time getting them right. The menu itself, filled with sketches and scribbled notes, looks like it came straight out of the team’s creative process. It doesn’t just tell you what’s in the drink; it invites you into the thinking behind it.

And that’s the point. Our Way isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel. It’s not here to impress with pyrotechnics. It’s about doing things properly — making a great drink, every time, for whoever’s sitting at the bar.

As Calabrese puts it — with the kind of measured gravitas usually reserved for popes or sommeliers — “It’s not about being the most extravagant. It’s about being the most consistent.” And really, that sums up the whole thing. No tricks, no drama. Just quiet excellence, poured into a glass and handed over with the kind of confidence that comes from years of getting it right.

Our Way isn’t here to chase trends or rack up likes on Instagram. It’s here to remind you that a really good drink, made really well, is still one of life’s great pleasures.

And if it happens to be served with a side of calm, understated cool — well, that’s just the Donovan way.

The Donovan Bar at Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair has launched Our Way, a new cocktail menu by Salvatore Calabrese and Federico Pavan. Featuring 13 refined serves — including the Marimo Martini and Margarita Blush — the menu blends classic mixology with contemporary flair. Open daily from 12pm, the bar offers an elegant yet understated setting rooted in timeless craft and character. For more information, and for reservations, please visit www.roccofortehotels.com.

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