One of the few hotels in Dubrovnik that stays open throughout the year, the five-star Excelsior has welcomed everyone from Queen Elizabeth and Margaret Thatcher to Agatha Christie and Che Guevara. There’s even a wall of fame near the hotel restaurant, with black-and-white photographs of all the illustrious guests that have graced its doors.
Open since July 1913, a year before the start of the Great War, the Excelsior has been modernised considerably since then, but has managed to retain a sense of grace and elegance reminiscent of a bygone age. Its location on the Ploče side of the city offers unparalleled views of Dubrovnik’s Old Town – a dramatic sight, especially when illuminated at night. Looking the other way, it faces the cypress-studded Lokrum Island, making it the kind of view that makes getting up in the morning not so bad after all.
The 158 rooms and suites are split between the original 1913 Villa Odak and the more modern wing, known as The Tower. All are decorated in the hotel’s signature soft greys, blues, and pinks, with light oak floors and antique-style rugs. My room, a Deluxe Suite, was right on the top floor of Villa Odak, with its own balcony and stunning views of Lokrum and the Old Town. It also had a bath tub as well as a walk-in shower.
After unpacking while admiring the views, I headed down to Sensus restaurant for lunch. In the summer months, Prora is the go-to spot for an alfresco table by the sea, but year-round Sensus is the one to book for cooler months, and its fine-dining menu comes paired with Croatian wines from its very own cellar. Executive chef Peter Obad, from nearby Konavle, crafts dreamy Adriatic dishes that manage to capture the essence of the area, but gives them innovative twists.
On the day I visited, the restaurant was blissfully quiet, and I had a table by the window looking out to Lokrum. My meal of buttery baked scallops, sea bass with brussel sprouts, and biscuit cake with ice-cream and candied olives, paired with my favourite wine – Korta Katarina pošip from 2024 – was one of the most memorable meals of my whole trip. And it was exactly the level you’d hope for at a hotel of this class – perfect flavours, textures and presentation – and my waitress Barbara was first-class, too.
After lunch I took a stroll down the hill into the Old Town. When the weather is warm enough, sunbeds are set up on the hotel’s terrace, and there’s direct access to the sea via a set of ladders for a refreshing dip. It’s also very close to popular Banje Beach. But on cooler days, a walk around the Old Town and a visit to some of its museums makes for a decent afternoon. If you’re here for a few days, I recommend getting the Dubrovnik Pass (which also includes access to the city walls).
With this, I was able to visit the Ethnographic Museum and the Maritime Museum, which is small enough to cover in under an hour, and which gives a good overview of Dubrovnik’s role in global seafaring history (its ships were once like the Rolls Royce of their day). I also took a tour of the Rector’s Palace – a great way to learn about the role of the Rector in old Ragusa, who was like a figurehead without much power, and replaced every 30 days.
Back at the Excelsior, I made the most of my seaview balcony, setting up camp to watch the sunset and soaking up the views before it was time to bid Dubrovnik farewell again. As direct flights have just resumed for most parts of the UK, and the season is warming up nicely, this is the best time to make a trip here.
Rates at The Excelsior start from €450 per night (approx £374) for a Standard Room, including daily breakfast. For more information, please visit www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com.
