Should you find yourself adrift in the culinary wilderness that is Southwark Street, yearning for a flicker of gastronomic brilliance away from the madding crowd that is London Bridge, the new and gloriously ambitious Pyro restaurant might just be the flaming beacon you seek.
Tucked away with an air of understated swagger, this establishment promises to set your palate ablaze with dishes that marry rusticity with refinement, all kissed by the primal allure of fire. It’s a place where the elements are not merely harnessed but celebrated, and on a recent visit, I found myself both charmed and challenged by its offerings.
There are a wide number of Greek-accented offerings on the comprehensive menu, all of which give Mazi – the previous high watermark for Hellenic cuisine in the capital – a run for its drachma. The highest praise must go to the lamb, a dish that arrives with the flamboyant confidence of a Restoration rake. The meat, sourced from the verdant pastures of Dorset, is cooked with a reverence that borders on the devotional.
Charred to a blushing pink, its exterior yields to a tender, almost indecently succulent core, each bite laced with the smoky whisper of the grill. A scattering of herbs and a judicious slick of jus elevate it to something approaching poetry, and the smoked anchovy yoghurt and lamb flatbreads turn this into something truly audacious.
Yet you’re not going to want for interesting ideas here. Kick off with some of the best tzatziki that you’ll try anywhere, a fine spanakopita or equally fine mussel skewer, and these things are all top-notch accomplishments. The souvlaki skewer, by contrast, is a bolder beast, a swaggering nod to Hellenic tradition that doesn’t so much invite admiration as demand it. Skewered and kissed by flame, the pork (for it was pork on this occasion) is robust, its marinade a deft interplay of garlic, lemon, and oregano that sings of sun-drenched hillsides. Homer, you imagine, would have had a field day.
The sea bream crudo, however, is where Pyro’s ambitions are most vividly realized. Served with a painterly flourish, the fish is a delicate marvel, its translucent slices glistening with a citrus and olive oil dressing that teeters on the edge of decadence. A scattering of micro-herbs and a whisper of chili add a frisson of excitement, though one could argue the dish flirts with preciousness. Still, it’s a starter that sets the tone: bold, precise, and unapologetically alive.
We order drink with vigour. A couple of Greek beers are dispatched swiftly, as are a pair of miniature takes on the Old Fashioned. Yet it’s the Assyrtiko white wine proves a revelation, a crisp, mineral-driven elixir from Santorini’s volcanic slopes. Its bracing acidity and citrus-zest verve cut through the richness of the meal like a well-aimed epigram, cleansing the palate with every sip. There’s a steely elegance to it, a wine that doesn’t beg for attention but commands it nonetheless. It’s the sort of bottle that makes one reconsider the virtues of Greek viticulture, and I found myself reaching for it repeatedly, as one might a trusted confidant.
Pyro, then, is a new restaurant that dances on the edge of greatness. Its devotion to flame and flavour is undeniable, and the enthusiastic, almost giddy diners have clearly embraced the fire. The Dorset lamb and sea bream crudo dazzle, the souvlaki skewer struts, and the Assyrtiko binds them with its crystalline charm. If you find yourself leaving with a desire to head back almost immediately, well, perhaps that’s the point: Pyro doesn’t just feed you; it leaves you hungry for more.
Pyro, 53b Southwark St, London SE1 1RU. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.pyrorestaurant.co.uk.
