If you’re not a regular visitor to London, you may be surprised to discover that, off the hustle and bustle of Oxford Street, lurks one of the city’s most exciting and interesting hidden streets, in the form of St Christopher’s Place. Admittedly, claims that it inspired Diagon Alley from Harry Potter may be somewhat wide of the mark, but this charming piazza, a mere two-minute stroll from Bond Street station, is a world apart from the high street’s madding crowd — a village-like haven of colourful Georgian shopfronts, where boutiques like Mulberry and Whistles rub shoulders with eclectic eateries.
Any new arrival is always something to be greeted with both curiosity and excitement, and when we popped into the very fine Noreen, while the restaurant was barely a week old, there was already the hope that something great lies at hand. It was already a hive of activity on our visit, its tables brimming with curious gastronomes and well-heeled locals alike, eager to sample its Middle Eastern-inspired offerings.
The atmosphere crackled with the early-days energy of a restaurant finding its feet and looking to establish itself, yet the crowd suggested word had spread swiftly — testament, perhaps, to the allure of St Christopher’s Place as much as the kitchen’s promise. “We’ve been busy every weekend”, our cheery waitress remarked, and it was only my instinctive response that the restaurant had only been open one weekend so far that leavened excitement with accuracy.
It was a frenetic old evening, but a jolly one. We began with the chilled shai, its cardamom notes just brushing the tequila, and a mulberry julep, tart and whimsical, and terribly drinkable. The cocktails have been curated by Ryan Chetiyarandana’s estimable Mr Lyan Studio, and they are terrific. Equally, our bottle of Pecorino, Tor Del Colle, Terre di Chieti, was a crisp, citrus-laced choice for the house white — unfussy yet quietly assured, much like our waiter, James, whose warm professionalism was a linchpin of the experience.
We consult on the menu, careful not to order too much, nor too little. Thankfully, we struck the right balance. The hummus with beef short rib was a standout, its silken chickpea base crowned with unctuous, slow-cooked rib that melted away. The halloumi with hot honey accompanied it, and was as fine as the herb-infused avocado labneh, flecked with dill and mint, was creamy but restrained. By contrast, the tamatim tomato salad was a riotous gatecrashing triumph — juicy heirlooms bursting with za’atar and sumac, a sun-drenched ode to summer that stole the show.
When it came to means, our shared grilled sea bass arrived with theatrical flair on a comically oversized plate, its tender, charred flesh paired with lemony tahini that sang of the Levant. Yet, it played safe, a disciplined performance lacking a spark of improvisation. The kabab laham, a minced beef and lamb kebab, was bolder — juicy, spiced with cumin and coriander, and paired with garlicky toum that stood up and attention, though its intensity might overwhelm subtler palates.
Desserts are something of an afterthought – the chocolate baklawa felt and tasted like posh rice Krispie cake – but chances are that you’ll have had a good enough time before then not to worry. This is a top-notch newcomer that will leave even the most jaded palate refreshed. And what’s in a name? Well, ask your waiter or waitress. Chances are that the explanation will bring a smile to your face, and that’s too good to spoil here.
Noreen, 28- 32 St Christopher’s Place, Marylebone. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.noreen-london.com.
