Following a meticulous renovation, Marbella’s landmark El Fuerte has emerged as one of the Costa del Sol’s most elegant addresses. Karen Yates checks in to discover a thoughtfully restored hotel where understated luxury comes naturally…
As I approach El Fuerte in Marbella on the Costa del Sol, I’m struck by its location, just steps from the sea and framed by tall palm trees. Then there’s its scale – this smart six-storey hotel has 266 rooms, 78 of which are Selected, offering guests a higher tier of accommodation and a range of additional perks – and, as soon as I step inside, its design.
Originally built in 1957, the five-star hotel reopened in 2023 following a 16-month renovation led by the studio of Chilean designer Jaime Beriestain, and I’m immediately impressed. The spacious entrance looks out towards the Mediterranean, terracotta tiles stretch across the floor, bold artworks hang on the walls, and the overall impression is one of timeless comfort with an unmistakably Spanish sense of luxury.
The terracotta tiles continue throughout my room, which feels more like a suite, and I immediately notice the clever use of colour. Earthy mid-brown walls create a cocooning, comforting effect and I imagine that, in the height of an Andalusian summer, the room would feel wonderfully cool and cave-like. It’s split into four distinct areas.
The first is dedicated to bathing, with double sinks, a WC and a shower, all finished in green and black marble and complemented by thoughtful low lighting. Beyond this is the sleeping area – separated by a sliding door that also muffles any sounds from the corridor – with a large bed dressed in crisp bed linen, wooden wardrobes, design magazines and all the extras you’d expect, from a television and coffee machine to a selection of organic teas.
The living area includes a thoughtful gift for every guest: a striped beige-and-white cotton wrap, along with a chair, sofa and a freestanding bathtub complete with Molton Brown products, perfectly positioned for soaking while listening to the sounds of the sea and birdsong. Beyond this is a generous balcony with a daybed – the perfect place to settle down with one of the many books available in different languages from the library downstairs – along with a table, an olive tree and uninterrupted views across the sun loungers, promenade and out to the Mediterranean.
There are several dining options. Soleo sits right on the beach and I enjoy meals both outside – where large beige cotton wraps are on hand should the evening turn breezy – and inside, where floor-to-ceiling windows make the most of the sea views. I confess I found the menu a little confusing, but can highly recommend the red shrimp pil pil, the sauce made with garlic oil, Manzanilla sherry and chilli; tuna with pickled beetroot; melt-in-the-mouth grilled squid; and the tomato and avocado salad.
As for the main courses, our waiter, Christóbal, whisks away the menus and treats us to fish straight from the sea. First comes corvina, similar to sea bass, served with potatoes, broccoli, intensely flavoured roasted red peppers and olive oil produced by the hotel’s owner. On another occasion we enjoy dorade (sea bream), accompanied by fresh cockles, potatoes and seasonal vegetables.
Like Soleo, Levante offers the choice of dining indoors or alfresco and takes its inspiration from the Mediterranean, with an Andalusian accent and a broader international influence. I order the red prawn rice dish, cooked to order for a minimum of two people and well worth the wait, which is happily spent sipping an excellent local wine and admiring the view.
Anything you could possibly want for breakfast can probably be found in Le Marché. Guests pass through the gallery space and the Grab ’N Go shop (for the sake of your dignity, I’d suggest you don’t take that literally; there’s an honesty payment machine) before reaching the breakfast area, where you can choose to sit inside or out on the terrace overlooking the beach. The spread includes fresh fruit, yoghurts, cereals, pastries (including gluten-free options), freshly squeezed juices, Spanish cheeses and hams, scrambled eggs, bacon, cooked tomatoes, as well as omelette and crêpe stations.
On my first morning I decide to try The Art of Breakfast. This three-course affair begins with Roots, which arrives on a miniature red-and-white cart placed on the table, laden with cold-pressed juice shots, fruit yoghurts, granolas and wafer-thin slices of mango. Next comes Tradition: sourdough bread, cured meats, cheeses and little pots of jam, honey, olives and halved cherry tomatoes.
Finally comes the pièce de résistance. Loop and Cake is served on an elaborate white carousel, complete with fairground horses and swans, which gently revolves as you help yourself to chocolates, fruit jellies, truffles, macarons and miniature cakes. As if that weren’t enough, there are also avocado ice creams coated in white chocolate. Quite an experience.
The hotel has two outdoor swimming pools, one of them heated, as well as a rooftop infinity pool, which was being refurbished during my stay. There’s also a Spa by Clarins, available daily and at no extra cost to guests staying in the Selected category. It’s a tranquil space, with a warm pool illuminated by soft green lighting that lends it an almost otherworldly quality, alongside a sauna. But it was in the steam room where I truly relaxed – probably because it was too hot to think about anything else.
Treatments are also available, and I opt for the Calm Essential Facial, placing myself in the expert hands of Lucia, who massages and pampers my face and neck with Clarins oils and lotions for a blissful 50 minutes. I’m convinced there was some sort of lymphatic drainage involved because my face looked lifted, plumped and beautifully moisturised for days afterwards.
Marbella’s Old Town is just a five-minute walk from the hotel, its narrow, whitewashed streets draped in bougainvillea and lined with seaside gift shops, boutiques, cafés and restaurants. Around half an hour away by taxi is Puerto Banús and its marina, although you can also hire a bike from reception and cycle there along the seafront promenade. The whitewashed waterfront is home to designer boutiques including Hermès, YSL, Dior, Fendi, Gucci and Rolex, while luxury cars gleam outside. At 2pm I’m offered a ginger health shot “to start the day” – a reminder that Puerto Banús is as much about nightlife as it is shopping.
From the marina we head out on a charter with our skipper, Henny, who greets us on his bike before leading us aboard his spacious motor yacht. There’s plenty of room to stretch out on deck and admire the coastline as we keep an eye out for dolphins at Henny’s suggestion, although they remain elusive on this occasion. Still, it’s a wonderfully relaxing way to spend a few hours before returning to Puerto Banús for a little gloriously blingy window shopping.
Back at El Fuerte, I find myself appreciating the hotel all over again. After a day exploring the Costa del Sol, returning to the calm, cocooning comfort of my room, with the gentle sound of the waves drifting in from the Mediterranean, feels like coming home.
El Fuerte is a 45-minute taxi transfer from Malaga Airport.
Karen stayed in a Selected Front Sea View Double Room with Lounge, which costs from €630 per night and includes breakfast in the Selected area of the Le Marché restaurant, access to the Selected lounge where complimentary drinks and snacks are served between 11am and 9pm daily, one Art of Breakfast experience per stay and a daily spa hydrotherapy session for adults. For more information or to book, visit www.elfuertemarbella.com.
Bicycles can be hired from reception for €24 per day. The motor yacht charter was booked through www.marbellaboatcharter.com.
