A welcoming country house, a gifted chef’s return, and comforts at every turn — Alex Larman finds Warwickshire’s Mallory Court reminds us what hospitality should be…
It is a truth universally acknowledged – or it should be, at least – that a really top-notch country house hotel needs to have several components in order to achieve success. A leading restaurant, for starters. The kind of spa that inspires a mixture of oohing and aahing in equal measure. A building that is both impressive and welcoming. Grounds that allow you to take a turn around them without getting either hopelessly lost or bored within a moment. And, of course, bedrooms so comfortable and so well-appointed that you don’t really want to take advantage of any of the other accoutrements of the hotel, but just to lounge around in them for the whole duration of your stay.
In any case, Mallory Court in Warwickshire – a few moments’ taxi from Leamington Spa station – manages to fulfil all of the above with chutzpah and aplomb to spare. I had visited previously, a few years ago, and I knew that the hotel was one of Britain’s most welcoming and genuinely friendly small luxury spots, where you’re greeted with genuine warmth as soon as you arrive, and where every moment of your stay is designed to be a pleasure.
But there had been some changes, too: a recent refurbishment of the bedrooms, and, most notably, the arrival of Stu Deeley, former Masterchef: The Professionals Winner and alumnus both of the much-acclaimed Smoke restaurant at Hampton Manor and, happily, Mallory Court itself, where he cut his teeth as a sous chef, before returning in glory as head chef. But does it live up to the anticipation?
First things first before dinner. When we arrived, we were staying in the Sulgrave room in the main part of the house, which has stunning views over the glorious herb gardens (themselves designed by P Morley Hoarder in the early twentieth century, and kept in life with his original specification as far as possible).
There was everything that you would expect, including a lavishly appointed bathroom, enormous master bed and, naturally, a complimentary minibar of soft drinks and water, but there were also unexpected but welcome touches that elevated this several notches, including a Mallory Court teddy and chocolate building blocks for our delighted daughter. You feel genuinely welcome here, and that is something rarer than you might expect.
The spa is a relatively recent addition, and although the hours spent here with children are by necessity limited, a plunge into the pool makes for a deeply happy diversion, and my own rather more grown-up foray into the outdoor vitality pool is both refreshing and relaxing in equal measure.
There’s a more casual restaurant here, too, Sencha, which offers lighter Japanese-influenced fare for lunch and dinner, and is a decent alternative option to The Warwick, the hotel’s main restaurant. But let’s be honest, it would be an enormous shame to come here and not try what Deeley’s come up with, so that’s where we’re headed for dinner.
The oak-panelled dining room in which The Warwick is based is terrifically historic and old-school, but on a previous visit it was forbiddingly austere and quiet, too. The addition of music has made it feel more casual, just as opening up the various rooms has lessened the sense of having to be on best behaviour – just as well when bringing a 9-year old – but ultimately the menu (£90 for three courses, £105 for the tasting menu, both coming with an assortment of amuse-bouches and canapes) stands or falls on how good it is. And, frankly, this is very, very good indeed.
It’s a happy marriage between old-school technique and inspiration and something cutting-edge and thoroughly modern. Highlights include my wife’s sublime Cornish crab in a Bloody Mary sauce, a really excellent main of rump cap beef served with ox cheek and a particularly fine monkfish dish. However, Deeley’s rapidly changing menu means that if there’s something fresh and seasonal, it’ll be on offer before too long.
And a nod must go both to the finely chosen wine list – we had a couple of glasses of the house white, a Warwickshire Bacchus, and then a well-picked Spanish Garnacha – and the wonderfully friendly and informal service, who made a 9 year old feel as welcome with her chicken nuggets and chips as the adults did with their decidedly grown-up fare.
Breakfast the next morning is a joy – simplicity and local produce are the key to keeping any family happy – and then it’s time to take a reluctant farewell. “Come back and see us soon”, the charming staff say as we head off. Nothing would make me happier.
Mallory Court Hotel and Spa, Harbury Lane, Leamington Spa, Warwickshire CV33 9QB. For more information, including details of offers, events and activities, as well as information about Stu Deeley at The Warwick, please visit www.mallory.co.uk. Mallory Court has been named Best Large Hotel in England at the VisitEngland Awards for Excellence 2025.
