If you haven’t heard of the chef Anthony Demetre, then, frankly, you should educate yourself forthwith. Not only is he a deserved Michelin star holder for his Wild Honey restaurant in St James, but he has been associated with more top end London restaurants over the past couple of decades than virtually any of his peers.
From the seminal, much-missed Arbutus in Soho (the origin of this little rag’s name, no less) to Les Deux Salons, he has been synonymous with excellent cooking at the fairest of prices. There is a generosity and egalitarianism to his restaurants that means that they don’t have to be reserved for blow-out affairs, but instead can be visited for a quick business lunch or saved for a gourmand occasion alike.
This is undoubtedly true of his latest venture, The Elizabeth in Belgravia. Although Demetre himself is credited as ‘culinary director’ rather than being in the kitchen all the time – presumably he has to devote his energies to Wild Honey – the finely judged menu has all of his hallmarks: traditional British cuisine – ‘bistronomy’, if you will – with a European twist, served up with panache by a talented and friendly front-of-house team.
The spot where it’s located used to play host to a restaurant called Ganymede, which was perfectly respectable, but this new neighbourhood spot is the kind of establishment that everybody hopes will be in their neck of the woods.
The meal begins with an apposite recommendation, an Axia watermelon spritz, to chime in with the dog days of summer. It’s unusual and deeply refreshing, a tonic for the darkening season and a fine curtain-raiser for the rest of the meal. It’s then time to sample a series of recommendations from the consummately professional and relaxed staff.
Starters of merguez sausage with green sauce and late summer tomatoes with stracciatella are about as good as anything that you’ll find anywhere in the capital at the moment, and paired with a glass of Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc, you’re in for a treat.
Then it’s time for a show-stopping main of rabbit it has to be mustard, which turns old Bugs Bunny into a culinary feast by using every part of the animal, nose to tail, for an incredible dish that is destined to become one of London’s most talked-about mains, showing Demetre’s culinary wizardry at its best.
If duck confit with chickpeas can’t quite compete, that’s no reflection on a beautifully prepared and deliciously cooked bit o’bird. Both mains are fairly priced, and when accompanied by a glass of Cotes du Rhone, hit the spot beautifully, especially if a side of perfectly grilled courgette accompanies them both.
You will not be hungry by this point in the meal, but if you can muster space for dessert, the blackberry pavlova and crème brulee show the European influences that have made this such a delightful and thoroughly enjoyable repast. If you are budget-conscious, and pressed for time, there is an excellent value set menu (£25 for two courses, £29 for three) that must be one of London’s best bargains.
However, if you have time and energy to spare, then a la carte is the way to go. So as a final, hugely welcome espresso martini rounds off the meal, then one murmurs a happy, sincere vote of thanks to the talented Mr Demetre and the Elizabeth, which, if all goes well, should have at least as long and distinguished a reign as the illustrious monarch that shared its name.
The Elizabeth, 139 Ebury Street, Belgravia, London SW1W 9QU. For more information, including a little bit about its history, and for bookings, please visit www.theelizabethsw1.co.uk.
Photos by Steven Joyce
