As America turns 250 this weekend, Baldwin Ho saddles up for a dose of classic Americana at ‘Buc Days’, and finds a Texan coastal city with rather more range than Hollywood ever let on…
Hollywood has plenty to answer for in its crimes against rodeo culture. My paucity of knowledge on the subject comes mostly from films like Borat and Brokeback Mountain. Yes, you do have to sing “The Star-Spangled Banner” before a rodeo starts, but try not to butcher the words and sing in English rather than Kazakh. And yes, you certainly do earn more money being a rodeo cowboy on the circuit rather than being a quiet ranch hand in rural Wyoming like Ennis Del Mar (famously played by Heath Ledger). I travelled to Corpus Christi recently to discover the broader context of a rodeo experience, beyond repressed sexuality and hyperbolic American patriotism.
Corpus Christi, a famous coastal city in Texas, is not somewhere you normally associate with cowboy culture. However, the “coastal cowboy” aesthetic and lifestyle have become a massive trend in recent years. It combines the rugged grit of ranch life with the more informal, relaxed vibes of beach culture. Its annual rodeo is known as ‘Buc Days’ (short for Buccaneer Days) and is, unsurprisingly, pirate-themed. It is a city tradition that has been running since 1938 and is officially recognised as the longest-running pirate festival in the area.
Brokeback Mountain was accurate in its depiction of rodeos as big businesses, and rodeo itself has gone on to become a global sports business since the book was written in the 1990s. Buc Days typically runs for 11 days each spring. However, it is more than just a sporting event involving horses and other livestock. There are concerts, there are carnivals, there is a parade, as well as a sizeable amusement park. Including their open-gate events like the night parade, they typically receive 100,000 to 120,000+ visitors.
The rodeo itself is a cross between Olympic competition and colosseum spectacle. Competitors entering the arena are treated like rock stars. It’s a pulsating, visceral experience, as you watch grown men try to master the beast of the bucking bronco. These horses are bred specifically to have the natural instinct to buck — kicking out their rear legs with extreme athleticism and jumping violently to try and dislodge the rider. The rider, in turn, has to hold onto specialised rigging for exactly eight seconds without touching the horse. Points are given out equally for both the rider’s performance and for the horse’s bucking efforts.
Photo by Wyatt Aerial Productions
Some events are no doubt controversial and not for the “squeamish”, such as tie-down roping. It involves lassoing a running calf, whilst the rider is on horseback. He then must wrestle the calf to the ground and tie three of its legs together in the fastest possible time. What we mustn’t forget is that these events originate from traditional ranch tasks like branding and doctoring. And the excitement generated from these challenges has connected rural producers with an urban audience. They inspire youths who did not grow up on farms to pursue careers in agriculture. That alone is a priceless achievement that the United Kingdom and the rest of the world can learn from.
Borat’s portrayal of a rodeo as an uncultured, provincial experience couldn’t be any further from the truth in 2026. Buc Days takes place in the Hilliard Centre, situated in the heart of the city’s unofficial “Museum Quarter”. Your Buc Days entry ticket will actually get you free entry into the Art Museum of South Texas on the same day. The focus is on regional, 19th to 20th-century American art, and Spanish Colonial pieces. Its glassware exhibits are a particular highlight, including The Chihuly Blue Cascade Chandelier and an elaborate multi-coloured glass vessel from the richly talented Stephen Rolfe Powell.
The building itself is an architectural masterpiece, with a distinct Latin American flair, especially in its 13 rooftop pyramids. Over 50% of the Corpus Christi area is Hispanic, and the museum does a superb job tailoring its programme to serve the local community. You will find the museum frequently exhibits the works of major Latino and Chicano artists. You will also find panoramic views of the Corpus Christi Bay area, the USS Lexington, and the Texas State Aquarium from the museum. Elizabeth’s, its Mediterranean-inspired cafe, is one of the most popular restaurants in the city.
A short stroll away is the Texas State Museum of Asian Cultures & Education, an intimate, grassroots museum, which makes its collection even more impressive. It houses the largest collection of traditional Japanese Hakata dolls outside of Japan. It often hosts interactive workshops, such as origami, print-making, and Japanese calligraphy classes, as well as opportunities for patrons to try on traditional Asian attire, including kimonos.
USS Lexington (Photo by Rachel Durrent)
If you want to live your best Top Gun Maverick life, you’ll have to visit the USS Lexington Museum. They have the exact F-14 used to capture much of the iconic air-to-air footage from the movie. The museum offers a number of interactive options, including a 3D mega-theatre, a flight simulator, and the “Lockdown on the Lex” escape room. Exploring the hidden nooks and crannies of this WWII-era aircraft carrier is arguably the highlight of the visit, as you can get a sense of how the naval officers lived onboard.
Rodeo is actually heavily rooted in Spanish and Mexican culture. The word is derived from the Spanish verb “rodear”, which means “to encircle” or “to go around”. Hence, you will not be surprised at the popularity of Tex-Mex restaurants in Corpus Christi. One to consider is Camino. The restaurant serves up a vibrant atmosphere, especially with its outdoor margarita garden. The complimentary tortilla chips along with savoury dips are a crowd-pleaser. Its comforting dishes are generously portioned, such as its seafood enchiladas.
However, the city is pleasingly diverse in its culinary scene. If you want a Neo-Tokyo-inspired seafood feast, head to Dokyo Downtown for the best sushi in town. If you want to try the local brewery scene and smoked meats, there is Nueces Brewing Company. If you want a surf ‘n’ turf experience with mesmerising views of the waterfront, there is Doc’s Seafood & Steaks. For artisan pastry lovers, there is Central Kitchen.
For fine dining, the only place to be is Republic of Texas Bar & Grill. Located on the 20th floor of the Omni Corpus Christi Hotel — which also happens to be the finest hotel in the city — the restaurant offers unbeatable views of Corpus Christi Bay. This is one of the few restaurants in an otherwise relaxed city where you wouldn’t look out of place dressed in smart-casual attire. You know it’s a refined affair when oysters are topped with shiitake mushrooms, capers, spinach, and brandy cream reduction. They also offer high-quality wild game meat, such as Broken Arrow Ranch venison.
The adage “never judge a book by its cover” has never been more true for this lesser-known Texan coastal city. You hear plenty about the energy sector side of Corpus Christi. You see rodeos depicted in a very stereotypical way in Hollywood films. However, if you delve a little deeper, you might fall in love with this slice of genuine Americana culture.
For more information about Corpus Christi, and to start planning your trip, visit the official tourist board website at www.visitcorpuschristi.com.
