A World Cup hangover, an Argentinian grill, and the small matter of the world’s 101 best steaks, Larry discovers a Marylebone institution that deserves to become a classic…
“Argentinian?!” Nick exclaims, when I tell him the restaurant I’ve elected for our catch-up, “are you winding me up?”
Admittedly, my choice of venue was leaning more towards reputation than cuisine style, but when I booked it how was I to know England would exit the World Cup to Argentina the day before? Fortunately, our welcoming maitre d’, Marko, is Croatian, offering his condolences, particularly after our opening win, ‘See? It works both ways,’ he offers, insouciantly.
Zoilo is not exclusively a steak restaurant, but it’s known for it – such that it’s now ranked in the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants. The career of chef-patron Diego Jacquet reads like a tour of the trade’s greatest hits: an apprenticeship under the legendary Francis Mallmann in his native Buenos Aires, Aquavit in New York, not to mention a stint at El Bulli under Ferran Adrià. It comes not just with pedigree, then, but a great deal of experience in knowing just what a proper restaurant should be about– no themes, no gimmicks, no fancy turns – to the extent that I’m surprised it even feels like a small neighbourhood restaurant. Beautifully turned out, granted, but it just oozes calm; the atmosphere is relaxed, there’s no pressure. The maitre d’ and his team feel like they’re there to enjoy it as much as we are.
It’s also not trying to impress on the menu either; simply deliver classics – with the occasional flourish – done exceptionally well. The same restraint carries over to the cocktail list: we’re not overwhelmed with choices (which is not to say the barkeep can’t turn out a decent repertoire), and of their ‘signature’ drinks we have but half a dozen. I ask after the ‘Fire & Ice’, featuring Belvedere and Amaretto; “It’s a bit hit and miss,’ I’m told. Well, that effortlessness clearly extends to honesty. I decide to give it a go, and it’s definitely on the hit side for me; the Amaretto adding a marzipan sweetness to the vodka’s bite. It’s a fine choice, alongside some focaccia – “that’s the best I’ve had in a while,” says Nick – and salsa verde, as we settle back at our outdoor table as the grip of the day’s heatwave fades at the onset of evening.
“This is a fab spot,” Nick says, as Marko returns to take our order. “How has business been?” I enquire. I’d always thought this to be a recent addition to London’s canon, but Zoilo has been a fixture on the Marylebone scene since 2012 – which puts my ignorance rather firmly in its place. Marko excuses it kindly; “we were known for tapas before,” he tells me, “then Diego wanted to focus on broader Argentinian.”
The 100% Argentinian also extends to the wine list – there’s a fine cellar below decks, over 250 labels drawn exclusively from Argentina’s winemaking regions, Mendoza to Patagonia and beyond – and, left in Marko’s hands, we sample their Kaiken Torrontés from the Cafayate Valley, an elevated choice even for their house white, with starters of Hamachi ceviche – given a tangy twist with ‘aji amarillo’ tiger milk and pickled kohlrabi – crab croquettes and homemade charcuterie. But it’s the empanadas we were recommended that hit the back of the net; generous, beefy, perfectly short pastry. They could teach the Cornish a thing or two.
Then the mains; and we can’t not order the Argentinian Bife Ancho ribeye, chargrilled and delivered sliced on a platter, with chimichurri, of course. Alongside, the pork chop, glazed with honey and wholegrain mustard. But it’s the hand-cut chips that get the first exclamation from Nick, “they’re exquisite,” he starts, “particularly with that Provençal garlic and parsley sauce.” More’s the point, we’re given Zoilo-branded steak knives for the job, something no self-respecting Top 101 should do without. It’s a nice touch. The wine that accompanies it is a Malbec, naturally, but unlike any I’ve tasted. Malbecs to me are always too jammy, often acidic. Not this one. An effortlessly smooth Flechas Gran Malbec 2019 from Mendoza – I shall have to revisit the grape again next time beef is on the menu, if they make them this good.
As the sky begins to bruise, the lamplights keeping us illuminated, we turn to dessert, and again the honesty comes out. I’d like to try an apricot confection on the menu. “No, don’t have that,” Marko says, “our crème brûlée is what we’re known for.” Now, I’m not a fan of crème brûlée, but I’m never one to refuse a recommendation from those in the know, and he wasn’t wrong. Made with dulce de leche, it added an extra dimension, and with a banana sundae ice cream, risked being overwhelmingly sweet, but it worked. Indulgent, sure, but just enough to satisfy.
Fourteen years is a decent innings for any Marylebone restaurant, let alone one that’s spent them without ever chasing a trend to prove its worth. That patience seems to be the whole point: Zoilo’s newfound place among the world’s 101 best steak restaurants isn’t the arrival of an overnight sensation, it’s the recognition of a restaurant that’s been getting the fundamentals right since before half its diners knew it existed – present company included. Consistency, it turns out, is its own kind of theatre. It puts Zoilo in good company; the staying power of a Langan’s or a Bocca di Lupo, a few years its senior, and still the Soho counter everyone swears by. Zoilo, having never chased “classic” status, may simply have arrived there anyway.
Zoilo, 9 Duke St, London W1U 3EG, For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.zoilo.co.uk.
