Nick Harman swaps sun loungers for switchbacks, testing Haute-Savoie Mont Blanc’s e-bike trails, historic mountain railway and thermal spa on a trip that ends, breathless, in the shadow of Mont Blanc itself…
My heart is pounding fit to burst, my legs are all wobbly, and I’m light-headed to the point of being slightly delirious. If you’re searching for a natural high, the peaks of Haute-Savoie Mont Blanc provide one that’s impossible to forget.
The ‘drug’ is an electric mountain bike that has just carried me high above the alpine village of Arâches-La-Frasse. Calling it an e-bike hardly seems fair. Forget the modest commuter models seen on city streets, this machine is built for the mountains with chunky off-road tyres, a rugged frame and a powerful motor capable of tackling gradients that would defeat most riders. Combined with nine gears and multiple power assistance levels, it turns daunting climbs into an exhilarating challenge and it eats steep slopes for petit déjeuner.
The route constantly changes under the wheels, from silky mountain roads to rough, pebbly tracks clinging to steep hillsides. After an hour of climbing, my fitness, or lack of it at 67 years old, is beginning to show. At the summit, our guide points us towards a different trail for the descent.
“Keep pressure on the rear brake,” he advises.
It’s sound advice. Gravity is eager to take over, and without restraint the bike quickly gathers underpants-threatening speed. Holding the bike back is obligatory for amateurs like me, while judicious use of the front brake helps prevent heart-stopping skids on the narrow stony paths. The ride down is equal parts thrilling and intimidating, and by the time I reach the valley floor I’m exhausted, exhilarated and I’ve found muscles I didn’t know existed.
This corner of Haute-Savoie, not far from Geneva and close to Chamonix Mont Blanc, is a paradise for anyone who enjoys life outdoors. During my visit, excitement was already building ahead of the first ever arrival of the Tour de France, which would soon tackle the nearby Plateau de Solaison for the first time. Villages along the route had decorated their streets with colourful displays, proudly celebrating their role in the famous race.
Cycling is only one of countless activities available here, though. Locals spend summer hiking mountain trails, swimming in crystal-clear lakes, rafting lively rivers and soaring above the valleys on paragliders.
Winter, of course, belongs to skiing. Once the snow melts, though, alpine meadows burst into colour with carpets of wildflowers and lush grass, transforming the landscape into an entirely different playground. Warm sunshine combines with refreshingly cool mountain air, making even the hottest days comfortable. Better still, you don’t always need to climb to enjoy the views, many ski lifts continue operating through summer, carrying walkers to the higher slopes.
A memorable ascent begins aboard the Tramway du Mont Blanc from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains. Following a recent extension, it is now the highest railway in France, climbing to over 2,000 metres above sea level. It’s ideal for those who want to get to the top effortlessly before walking down.
Parking at the departure station is free, and sitting on the right-hand side rewards me with magnificent panoramas throughout the journey. For around an hour, the train steadily clambers up using the toothed rack rail necessary to tackle gradients often so steep that those facing backwards begin sliding off their seats.
At the terminus, Nid d’Aigle, the Eagle’s Nest, spectacular mountain scenery stretches in every direction. Once serving as a refuge for climbers, the station now includes a café where walkers can refuel before continuing higher or heading down. Those tempted by the ultimate climb towards Mont Blanc are reminded by warning signs, displayed in lots of languages, that even in summer only experienced mountaineers equipped with full alpine gear, including oxygen, should proceed. I decide that admiring the view is adventurous enough for me.
After a day spent exploring the mountains, the thermal baths at Thermes de Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc provide welcome relief. Set within peaceful woodland, the spa has welcomed visitors since the early nineteenth century and was renovated in 2016, combining contemporary comfort with historic charm.
At around 39°C, natural spring water emerges under pressure from deep beneath the mountains and is rich in minerals including sulphur, magnesium, silicon and copper. As I float in the outdoor thermal pool, surrounded by towering pines and alpine scenery, as well as the slightly rotten-egg aroma of sulphur, I feel both body and mind unwind.
A cliffside lift connects the spa with the village high above, where dinner was at the traditional Le Galeta. Wood-grilled specialties are the highlight, and after tackling an enormous high-quality steak served with a rich, waistband-bursting Reblochon and ham gratin, I retired to the elegant Hotel Le Saint-Gervais, a classic alpine hotel all tastefully modernised inside. Between the day’s exertions and the generous meal, sleep came effortlessly.
For travellers seeking something gentler than mountain biking, Haute-Savoie is also an excellent wine experience. At Domaine Montessuit Famille in Ayze, beneath the slopes of Mont Blanc, their pretty vineyards flourish at around 600 metres above sea level. A relaxed guided ride on electric bicycles winds through rows of vines rooted in limestone scree, before we head indoors out of the hot sun to end with a tasting of their excellent still and sparkling wines. The distinctive local Gringet grape produces wines that beautifully express the region’s unique terroir, flinty and dry from the layers of stone under the soil.
Before leaving, there is one final climb to make. Starting from the Col de Joux Plane above Samoëns, a gentle half-hour walk leads to La Bourgeoise, one of the finest 360° panorama viewpoints in the region.
Good walking shoes are highly recommended. My ridiculously inappropriate town shoes have me floundering for grip, even on dry grass, while carrying water and a waterproof jacket is always sensible. Mountain weather has a habit of changing unexpectedly, but at least that high up you can usually see it coming a long way off.
Fortunately, today the skies remain cloudless. Green and colourful pastures stretch in every direction, accompanied by the unmistakable soundtrack of distant cowbells. Throughout spring and summer, cattle graze ever upwards as fresh alpine grasses and wildflowers emerge from the retreating snowline, producing the rich milk that gives the area’s celebrated cheeses Reblochon, Abondance, Beaufort, and Chevrotin their exceptional flavour.
From the summit, Mont Blanc dominates the horizon. Rising to 4,810 metres, its permanently snow-covered peak, with temperatures around −20°C, stands brilliant against the blue sky, while the valleys spread out far below as if viewed from a plane. It’s a fitting finale to a journey through one of France’s most spectacular landscapes. If I had much breath left from the walk, this would have taken it away.
With endless opportunities for adventure, refreshingly cool summer temperatures and scenery that rivals anywhere in Europe, Haute-Savoie Mont Blanc offers a compelling alternative to a traditional beach holiday. Why spend the season beside a crowded pool when you could be discovering the heights of the French Alps instead?
EasyJet flies to Geneva from London Gatwick, London Luton, Manchester, and Bristol. For more information about the Haute Savoie region, and to start planning your trip, please visit the official tourist website at www.hautesavoiemontblanc-tourisme.com.
Photos by the author. Header image by Gilles Lansard, courtesy of Haute-Savoie Tourisme
