On Vietnam’s Monkey Mountain, Bill Bensley’s theatrically beautiful InterContinental Danang sits inside a nature reserve that was never consulted. Katie Monk checks in — and discovers the original residents have strong opinions about welcome cake…
It’s not every morning I’m woken up by a family of monkeys. But at the InterContinental Danang, they’re my alarm clock – more reliable than my phone, and more pleasant than the motorbikes that usually do the job in Vietnam. The resort is located above a secluded bay on the Son Tra Peninsula (known locally as Monkey Mountain) – a 4,400-hectare nature reserve containing the only remaining coastal rainforest in Vietnam. It sits slap bang in the natural habitat for the red-shanked douc langurs and native macaques. They’re not always here. They have other places to be, naturally. But on my visit they’re everywhere – sitting in the almond trees munching the leaves, swinging between the branches, clambering along rooftops to peer into windows. One even sits on my balcony, then looks me straight in the eye as it walks up to my door to try and wrestle a way in. I hide the welcome cake that awaits me on my desk, then double-lock the door.
Before 2012, when the resort was built, this bay was mostly undeveloped, and the doucs had the run of the place. So of course the arrival of rooms and people and cakes can sometimes prove a little too much. Now they have to share it with guests like me. American architect Bill Bensley – the resort’s designer – was keen to keep as much of the native flora intact and preserve the natural habitat as much as possible. So here we all are, eyeing each other up.
My villa – a Club Terrace Suite with Ocean View – sits right at the end of the row, so I’m not overlooked. I have uninterrupted views of the lush forested hillside and sea below, which is a rarity in this part of the world, and I soak up as much of the fresh air and lush greenery as possible. Doucs and all.
As well as the primates, this area is home to 100 species of birds, 50 species of butterflies and an abundance of flora. The tropical almond trees provide essential food for the monkeys and are a key part of the resort’s ecosystem.
Once I’m sure my room is secure from would-be invaders, I take a buggy to the Club InterContinental Lounge. Certain room categories come with lounge access, and mine thankfully does. I’m a huge fan of Club Lounges. They bridge the gap between a hotel’s restaurant scene, which is lovely though sometimes too formal for what you need in the moment, and a quiet place to relax and get work done. Even if your room doesn’t include lounge access, you can purchase an upgrade should you wish. And I highly recommend you do. Each day there’s a breakfast spread, a light lunch, and an afternoon tea, followed shortly by a happy hour of complimentary signature wines, cocktails and canapés. And the views are spectacular. What’s not to love?
The villas and restaurants are layered up the hillside over four tiers: Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea. Two funiculars designed like traditional Vietnamese basket boats – nicknamed the Nam Tram – climb up and down the hillside, ferrying guests between each one. It’s as charming as it is functional, like much of Bensley’s thinking here. My villa is at Sky, and the Club Lounge is at Heaven. After a couple of hours in the lounge, I take it down to Sea level for a much-needed dip.
It’s rare to see the sea so calm in this part of the world. Danang is famous for its waves, and has a fast-growing surf scene. So I make the most of the calm water and swimming opportunities while I’m here, interspersed with ice cold coconut water and fresh flannels that are kindly deposited in a little bag by my lounger by staff in jaunty black-and-white striped maritime uniforms, another Bensley mark. It’s all very Jean-Paul Gaultier, and I’m all for it.
When it’s time to have lunch, I seek out nearby Long Bar – which, at 50 metres, is the longest bar in Asia, I’m told – and recline on a spacious cushioned seating area facing the sea, dutifully fanned by oversized palms sweeping the air above. Fresh rolls and tuna tacos appear and an iced mocktail goes down a treat. Above the bar is the adults-only Long Pool, with day beds thoughtfully spaced out, and no sooner have I reclined myself once again, than two ladies from the spa approach me and offer me a complimentary shoulder massage. Naturally I can’t refuse.
Bensley’s design extends to the resort’s interiors too. The aesthetics are fabulously theatrical and whimsical without tipping into pastiche. Think Vietnamese vernacular architecture with Indochine influences – lots of black lacquered wood, monkey motifs, colourful jungle scenes and a real sense of play. Even the crockery gets the Bensley treatment – each plate and cup bears a small picture of a monkey on the underside, something you only notice when you pick it up, which is precisely the point. There’s something Henri Rousseau about it all, with a dash of Moulin Rouge. This is my first Bensley property, and it won’t be my last – I’m now officially part of the fan club. He’s the sort of designer who makes a hotel feel like an experience rather than a product: all dickie bow and braces, just like the man himself.
Dinner options include Vietnamese cuisine at Citron, more Mediterranean and international fare at Terra Mare on the beach, or the fabulous Japanese restaurant Tingara – also designed by Bensley and resembling a deep-sea dreamscape writ large. I begin at Terra Mare, where I try Hokkaido scallops with green chilli, sour mango and calamansi, followed by a sea bass – the day’s catch – with grilled broccoli and truffle fries.
Everything is excellent. Later that evening, I sit at the counter and enjoy a teppanyaki experience with sake pairings and a glass or two of Sancerre. I’m joined by John Hamilton, Executive Director of Marketing, who tells me all about the property, and explains how Tingara used to be the Club Lounge, before demand for lounge access exceeded the space created for it. We chat about life in Vietnam, and the rise in visitor numbers to the area.
It’s my second trip to the country this year, which probably tells you everything you need to know. UK visitors now get 45 days visa-free – more than most comparable destinations in the region. The doucs were here long before the pools and the teppanyaki, and show no signs of leaving – entirely unbothered, which in a place this beautiful is the only sensible attitude to take. Frankly, neither do I.
Intercontinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang, Vietnam. The Classic Ocean View Room starts from USD570 per room per night, excluding breakfast. For more information, please visit www.danang.intercontinental.com.
