The iconic Midland Hotel in Manchester has seen many a famous guest over the years. The Edwardian building has always been a symbol of elegance, ever since its establishment in 1903 and the impressive shadow it casts over St.Peter’s Square in the city centre evokes luxury and class.
Such patrons have included luminaries such as Charles Rolls, who upon meeting Henry Royce within its hallowed halls, made motoring history in 1904 (evidenced by one of their creations proudly sitting in front of the entrance). The Beatles were refused entry to the French restaurant for being underdressed and now party season at the Midland means the housing of MPs and senior figures, when one of the major political parties comes to town for their annual party conference. Hitler allegedly took a keen interest in the hotel – but that’s a story for another day!
Early evening in the main reception and surrounding area is often a cacophony of competing noises and volume. Event delegates ordering at the bar vie for attention, whilst the more local 9-5ers boisterously contemplate office politics and other trials and tribulations of the day.
Off to one side of the grand entrance however, sits an oasis of calm. On first walking into the Mount Street restaurant, you may question whether you have actually lost one of your senses, such is this hive of activity only a matter of metres away. The tumult of chatter gives way to a tranquillity of almost silence, only broken by diner’s conversation and the clink of ice in a glass. The sobriety of the room isn’t to be mistaken for a lack of atmosphere, as this modern British style brasserie, with its early 1900’s art deco inspired setting, emanates a feel of welcoming comfort.
Its latest rebrand is part of a £14 million refurbishment of the hotel and has been through several iterations including the initial grand dining room for railway travellers and Manchester society, to the more recent Mr Cooper’s House & Garden.
The unfussy and excellent menu is focused on locally sourced produce, and every dish is sublimely presented. The pork and black pudding bon bons in a cider gel are an exquisite snack and these little orbs of flavour are the perfect scene setter for what is to follow. The smoked salmon with lemon gel, dill mascarpone, filo crips, pickled shallot and egg yolk is both beautiful in its presentation and taste. The ham terrine continues the cider theme with an emulsion combined with parsley, crackling, sourdough and a memorable mustard butter.. We could quite happily have settled for any of the other two starters, which included a white onion soup or a salt-baked maple swede.
The streamlined menu makes such a pleasant change from the encyclopaedic offerings often seen at other venues but what it ‘lacks’ in quantity, it certainly makes up for in quality. Competition for my attention flitted between the 36-day dry aged sirloin, and the chicken breast with pomme anna, honey roast fennel, mushroom puree and crispy bacon. But after much deliberation, I succumbed to the allure of the superb slow cooked beef daube. My wife’s roasted stone bass with saffron potato was light and perfectly satiating.
Even my ever expanding girth couldn’t accommodate the intriguing sounding dessert menu although the Bakewell pudding was VERY tempting. The evening however wouldn‘t have been complete without sampling the newly curated cocktail offering and the Mount Street white negroni certainly didn’t disappoint, bolstered by its Midland 1903 gin.
The Midland stands proudly alongside other significant Manchester institutions in the vicinity. The Central Library competes as eye candy and is a proud and imposing neighbour, whilst the modern, business busy offices and restaurants across the tram tracks offer a marked comparison to their older, more distinguished counterparts. With a fiercely competitive food and drink scene in the heart of the city, Mount Street represents a new yet familiar kid on the block but the setting, superb menu and excellent staff ensure it will play a part in the continuing story and history of this spectacular hotel.
Mount Street Dining Room & Bar, 16 Peter St, Manchester M60 2DS. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.themidlandhotel.co.uk.
