The recently opened Romano’s at Simpson’s-in-the-Strand isn’t just ‘going out for dinner’, it’s the chance to time-travel to the first half of the 20th century; an experience which ought to begin with a drink at Simpson’s Bar, where a glamorous Art Deco entrance catches the eye the moment you reach the first floor, passing the tongue-in-cheek painting of Churchill (also featuring a cameo by Jeremy King) at the Savoy Theatre. With clubby brown leather booths and veneered tables with such a sheen that you can almost check your hair, it already seems to have been sniffed out by suited business types who prefer cocktails to a pint after a hard day in the office.
And judging from the cocktail list, there are no accrued cares and stresses which the bartender cannot cure with his potent elixirs. Amusingly, the signature ‘Sharpeners’ have chess-related names such as ‘Book Move’ and ‘Gambit’ in honour of the venue’s history as a past chess tournament venue, with many more nods to this heritage incorporated into the new redesign. You’ll even find some handsome chess sets in the bar should you feel ‘sharp’ enough after a ‘Checkmate’, the house concoction consisting of Rittenhouse Rye, Hine Rare Cognac, Cocchi di Torino, benedictine and bitters.
Romano’s takes its name from the once-lauded Alphonsus Romano Café, a bohemian restaurant which operated on The Strand in the 19th century and was in turn named after the enigmatic Italian owner; bombed during the Blitz of 1941 and rarely heard of since until restaurateur extraordinaire, Jeremy King, who can often be seen wafting between tables greeting diners, decided to conjure up the memory of a venue that was more artistic salon than restaurant. And Mr King’s tribute is an extravagant one, almost certainly an improvement on the original, just as any former customers (including myself) will consider the ebullient Grand Divan on the ground floor. Romano’s boasts one of the most beautiful dining rooms I’ve ever seen – and I’m lucky enough to have experienced some pretty striking Art Nouveau examples in Paris – so convincingly Edwardian in its sensibility that I defy anyone not to believe that it’s been this way for at least a hundred years.
From the ostentatiously high ceiling to 16 specially commissioned portraits of 20th century playwrights (some familiar, some forgotten) celebrating the restaurant’s prime West End position and all that the British pen and stage has given to the world, the 135-cover restaurant has a breathtaking attention to detail; the result of the collaboration between Jeremy King and Shayne Brady of the London-based Studio Shayne Brady who was commissioned with not only designing Romano’s but bringing up to snuff the magnificent entirety of Simpson’s-in-the-Strand – 21,500 square feet over five floors.
Brady has developed a working synergy with King over the course of eight restaurants, and no doubt understood the brief for Romano’s before he even received it. He has certainly succeeded in creating a ravishing space that is a feminine antidote to the gentlemanly wood-panelled interior of the Grand Divan. Whether you’re seated at one of the long banquettes, a cosy booth, or a stand alone table with balloon-back chairs, the linens and glowing table lamps set the tone of elegance almost to distraction; when the waitress arrived to take my order I hadn’t even picked up the menu.
Proclaiming themselves the “21st century answer to an artistic salon”, Romano’s proceeds in the tradition of the Grand Cafés found in any self-respecting European city, with all-day à la carte and pre & post theatre set menus by executive chef David Stevens making this the perfect venue for a romantic dinner, family celebration or a light bite before or after a show. And it isn’t just the setting that’s nostalgic; starters include pork pie and piccalilli, Scotch egg with Coronation mayonnaise or half a pint of prawns. Chef Stevens’ “deceptively simple” retro favourites continue with the main courses; Lincolnshire Poacher soufflé with cheese sauce, a beef shin, snail and garlic pie as Saturday’s ‘Pie of the Day’, or Simpson’s traditional roast rib of Devonshire beef served on Sundays (available 7 days a week at the Grand Divan).
Dining with my husband and father, the three of us were drawn to the rarely-seen smoked eel, in this case well showcased with candy beetroot and horseradish, an utterly delicious unsung hero, particularly when accompanied with a side of the celeriac remoulade. The main courses were equally pleasurable; my father and I opting for the Brixham day boat hake with seasonal asparagus, courgettes and a dill beurre blanc – just the kind of food we both love – while husband surprised no one with his choice of steak frites which proved a good advertisement for both the chef and the beef.
Along with British cheeses served with fruit bread and a Welsh Rarebit ‘savoury’, the ‘afters’ line-up is largely a tribute to comforting puds like cherry and apple crumble and sticky toffee, with plenty of lighter options on a hot day including a raspberry bakewell tart, chocolate éclair and strawberry and sherry trifle, all displayed in the handsome dessert trolley which brings out the child in everyone. But sometimes all you want is an ice cream sundae or ‘Coupe Liégeois’, chocolate and vanilla ice cream topped with crème Chantilly and served with a jug of glossy dark hot chocolate sauce with which to drizzle over in about as un-Nigella-like a manner as your eagerness dictates.
In his 1951 book, Ghosts and Greasepaint, W. Macqueen Pope describes the crowd who once flocked here: “To Romano’s flocked the Bohemians, men and women of greasepaint, authors, journalists, artists of all kinds, soldiers, sailors (but not of ‘other ranks’), men of the law, of finance, of the racecourse and the prize-rings and crooks as well.” And despite the new Romano’s still being in its infancy, it’s clear that the social milieu of which Pope writes are already returning; people from every walk of life congregating for excellent food, service and an opulent interior as different to their own homes as it’s possible to imagine unless their address happens to be Buckingham Palace.
King, whose reputation as a restaurateur spans decades, knows precisely the kind of clientele he wants and how to attract them. He’s not after the restaurant hit squad who show up during the opening week only to strut on to the next venue, or those looking for umpteen-course Michelin tasting menus, he wants diners who unapologetically enjoy the classics and get a kick from the remarkable spectacle of, and history behind, Simpson’s-in-the-Strand. Possessing the Midas touch when it comes to restaurant concepts, all King’s venues can be regarded as the epitome of elegant London dining, each with a clear identity and atmosphere that draws you back long after the buzz surrounding their launch.
Having spent over twenty years trying to acquire Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, with failed bids in 2000, 2008 and 2015, Mr King was finally successful in 2022 when the establishment was forced to close during the pandemic, and the result is surely as much beyond his initial imagining as it is mine. Whether you’re popping to Nellie’s Tavern or Simpson’s Bar for an after-work drink, enjoying a post-theatre bite at Romano’s, indulging in the best roast beef of your life at the Grand Divan, or crying happy tears at your wedding reception inside the magnificent Assembly Room, Mr King has created one of the most enjoyable drinking, dining and indulging experiences London has ever known.
Romano’s at Simpsons-in-the-Strand, 100 Strand, London, WC2R 0EZ, open all day Monday to Saturday Monday to Saturday 11:30 – 23:30 (last orders), Sunday 11:30 – 22:30. For more information and reservations please visit the website.
Photos by Helen Cathcart
