When I visited The Capital about six years ago, I was blown away by the…
Browsing: Best London Restaurants
I first read about The Connaught at an extremely impressionable age. I was too young –it left an indelible, immovable mark on my consciousness. I was fourteen years old, but I remember the sequence of events very clearly.
Theo Randall deals in rusticity. His cooking philosophy is simple: source the best ingredients to create authentic Italian dishes that would make mama weep for her homeland.
“The Westbury is one of Mayfair’s more understated hotel addresses. Tucked away between the hedge funds and art galleries, away from the gaze of shoppers and tourists, it luxuriates gently, with a quiet confidence.”
“You are sitting in Lady Thatcher’s seat madam: tonight you are the Iron Lady. And there, across from you, that’s the table Princess Margaret always booked.” It could only happen at The Ritz…
“If I concentrate, I can see it all in my mind’s eye. It’s the early eighties – 1982 perhaps – that apocryphal year for the finest Clarets. I’d say it’s November and wintry, cold and grey outside…”
“It has always been my opinion, formed through long experience, that a culture can be judged, and yes I do mean judged, by the quality of its food and the quality of its philosophy.”
As the aromas of black truffle waft through the restaurant, I glimpse a sea of grey Patrick Batemans, like bowler-hatted figures from a René Magritte painting, interminably colourless against the zest of Mazzei’s cooking.
The number 36, in association with the ‘Solar Square’ of ancient Western tradition, stands for ‘sun’ and ‘warmth’. As of September, it’s also the name of Nigel Mendham’s new restaurant at Dukes Hotel.
This is possibly the most challenging restaurant review that I have ever written and will…