In a quiet Oxfordshire village ten minutes from Oxford, The Bat & Ball pairs a beautifully restored 16th-century inn with Le Manoir pedigree in the kitchen. Rob Rees checks in for dinner, a bed for the night, and finds a village pub that hasn’t forgotten what it is…
Hidden away in one of Oxfordshire’s sleepiest villages, yet barely ten minutes from Oxford’s Park & Ride, The Bat & Ball is exactly the sort of discovery that reminds you why Britain still does village pubs better than almost anyone else.
Behind honey-coloured stone walls lies a beautifully restored 16th-century coaching inn that has avoided every predictable gastropub cliché. There are no fashionable dark navy walls, stuffed pheasants or distressed agricultural antiques. Instead, designer Sally Price has created a space that feels refreshingly original: Scandinavian furniture sits comfortably alongside exposed beams, brickwork and stone floors, contemporary artwork brightens ancient walls, while reclaimed timber tables and understated Windsor chairs make the whole place feel relaxed rather than stage-managed.
Most importantly, it still feels like a village pub. Locals drift in for a pint, the darts team occupies its corner beneath a gloriously jazzy scoreboard, church bells replace passing traffic, and walkers with muddy boots are as welcome as weekenders escaping London. It’s authentic because nobody is trying too hard.
The 16th-century building balances history with modern comfort with forest-green banquettes, and a log-burner anchoring the main dining room. Cricket memorabilia, door knobs as cricket balls and a marvellous bar table made with stumps as legs and embedded bail-shattering cricket balls.
The Bat & Ball is the latest success from Ben Moss, whose nearby Lamb Inn at Little Milton has already earned a loyal following. In Cuddesdon the ambition is simple: create outstanding food without forgetting you’re running a pub. It’s already in the new Michelin Guide and has just gained two AA rosettes.
Head chef Rick Owens, formerly of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, understands that balance perfectly. His cooking is refined without becoming fussy, ambitious without sacrificing generosity or value. The sourcing alone tells you everything. Beef comes from Walter Rose, vegetables from Oxford grower Peter Durham, bread from Wild Frog Bakery and nearby Proof Bakehouse, seafood from Cornwall’s Flying Fish and cheese from Somerset’s Longman’s. It’s a roll call of producers chosen because they’re exceptional rather than fashionable.
The menu happily moves between inventive small plates and comforting pub classics. Tempura cauliflower with curried yoghurt, jasmine raisins and pickled onions delivers crunch, spice and sweetness in equal measure, while squash arancini arrives with an elegant sage oil emulsion. Chalk Stream smoked trout with celeriac remoulade is beautifully judged, and a soft-shell crab slider with gochujang mayonnaise provides an Asian flourish without feeling forced.
Those seeking traditional comfort won’t be disappointed. Beer-battered haddock arrives with chunky chips and proper tartare sauce, cottage pie is crowned with gloriously cheesy mashed potato, steaks feature prominently and Sunday lunch has already become something of a local institution. Vegetarians, vegans and gluten-free diners are unusually well served, with dishes that feel properly designed rather than merely accommodated.
Desserts continue the theme. Sticky toffee pudding and apple-and-blackberry crumble satisfy traditionalists, but more inventive options such as orange and Grand Marnier sponge with clementine curd and vanilla ice cream show the kitchen’s lighter touch. Service strikes exactly the right note. General manager Peter leads an enthusiastic young team who are friendly, knowledgeable and refreshingly unstuffy.
Upstairs, five individually designed bedrooms make it easy to turn lunch into a weekend away. Calm colours, comfortable beds and peaceful views across quiet village lanes encourage an extra night’s stay, while breakfast is exactly what you’d hope for: excellent coffee, generous fry ups, pancakes, porridge and eggs however you like them.
The location is another quiet triumph. Cuddesdon sits just three miles from Junction 8 of the M40, making it remarkably accessible without feeling remotely suburban. Oxford is minutes away via Thornhill Park & Ride, opening up effortless days exploring the Ashmolean Museum, the Pitt Rivers Museum and the city’s famous colleges.
Equally tempting is the surrounding countryside. Quiet Chiltern lanes weave between tiny villages, vineyards like JoJo’s near Henley, artisan bakeries in Stoke Row and country walks that somehow remain overlooked while much of the disneyfied Cotswolds groans beneath its own hackneyed popularity.
That’s perhaps The Bat & Ball’s greatest achievement. It delivers everything people increasingly chase in Britain’s fashionable rural destinations – exceptional food, stylish rooms and genuine character – without any of the self-conscious theatre or those air-kissing, Daylesford shenanigans.
Come for dinner, stay the night, explore Oxford or the Chilterns the next day, then leave quietly wondering why more people haven’t discovered it already.
The Bat & Ball, 28 High St, Cuddesdon, Oxford OX44 9HJ. Rooms start from £140 per night for a double, including breakfast. For more information, and for bookings, please visit www.batandballcuddesdon.co.uk.
