The South Bank has always been a place where London performs, or even out-performs itself. There is the river, forever flowing with tourists, commuters and boats of all size and shapes; the brutalist confidence of the Royal Festival Hall, still one of the city’s great music venues; and, situated inside the RFH’s very centre, Skylon, a restaurant that boasts both a peerless view and very decent food indeed, which reminds us that there are still superb meals to be had in performing arts venues.
This year, the setting feels especially resonant. The Royal Festival Hall celebrates the 75th anniversary of the Festival of Britain, that optimistic post-war declaration, brought about by a Labour government, no less, that modernity, culture and design could rebuild not just cities but national confidence. There is something pleasingly appropriate about dining in a building conceived as a symbol of renewal, while watching a capital that has reinvented itself countless times since.
Skylon wisely leans into the occasion without becoming trapped in aspic. The cocktail list includes a series of David Bowie-inspired creations, paying tribute to another artist who understood reinvention better than most, and it was all I could do not to go on-brand by ordering a ‘Life on Mars’. I began, however, with the Mandarin Stag, a beautifully balanced whisky-based aperitif whose bright citrus notes and subtle warmth made for an elegant opening act rather than an overworked showstopper. That it comes trailing clouds of smoke hints at a theatricality that is to be found elsewhere in the meal, in the most unexpected but welcome places.
Those starters displayed confidence rather than unnecessary complexity. Deep-fried oysters arrived with crisp, golden shells giving way to gloriously briny centres, retaining all the minerality one hopes for while adding an irresistibly indulgent crunch.
Alongside them, spicy tuna tartare delivered freshness with just enough restrained heat to avoid overwhelming the quality of the fish, allowing texture and seasoning to work in satisfying harmony. Glasses of Bacchus from New Hall Vineyard in Essex was an equally inspired choice. English wine has long graduated from novelty status, and this crisp, aromatic white demonstrated precisely why, slipping down with aplomb.
The centrepiece was a generously proportioned bone-in rib-eye steak for two, cooked exactly as requested, richly marbled and deeply flavoured in the way that only properly aged beef can be. This is unapologetically celebratory cooking. Triple-cooked fries provided the requisite crisp exterior and fluffy interior, while Isle of Wight tomatoes contributed sweetness and acidity that cut neatly through the richness of the meat. It was far better than a more heralded restaurant that I visited recently, where the steak was nearly inedible; this was properly well-done and all the better for it.
I was on best behaviour as I had to stay sharp, but a glass of Château Teyssier Bordeaux proved a reliable partner for the steak: supple, approachable and structured enough to complement the beef without demanding centre stage itself. It was the sort of intelligent by-the-glass selection that deserves recognition, allowing diners to enjoy a thoughtfully matched wine without committing to an entire bottle.
Dessert somehow seemed unnecessary after such abundance, but a cherry Bakewell tart to share was just the touch of indulgence that we needed, and washed down by a pair of espresso martinis, it made for the perfect epilogue to a fine meal.
Skylon succeeds because it understands exactly what it is. There are restaurants with more experimental menus, flashier chefs or louder reputations. But few combine location, atmosphere and polished hospitality with such assurance. Like the Royal Festival Hall itself, it reminds you that some expressions of modern British confidence age remarkably well. Seventy-five years after the Festival of Britain imagined a brighter future for us all, there is something deeply satisfying about raising a glass above the Thames and discovering that optimism, when paired with excellent food and an unforgettable view, still feels something that we can all aspire to, even now.
Skylon, Royal Festival Hall, London, SE1 8XX. For more information, including details of their Summer Celebration Menu, the Southbank Centre’s 75th Anniversary events, and for bookings, please visit www.skylon-restaurant.co.uk.
